aMMMM»iai»mm.im'j m w.m* M r M . 



HI -*■ 



FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

OF 

jk AN AMERICAN QIRL A 



ELIZABETH & MILLER 



& 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 

ffl&ap Gopijrtsfjt fa 

Shelf ^.£4 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 



OF 



AN AMERICAN GIRL 



BY 



IUN 3 1895 



ELIZABETH E MILLER /<"!/ ^ t ^ 



PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR 



MEADVILLE, PENN. 

P. O. BOX 794 

1895 

MESSENGER PRINT. 



h 



THE LIBRARY 

or CONGRESS 

WASHINGTON 



Copyright, 1895, 



ELIZABETH E. MTLLER. 






TO 
JESSIE A. McGILL 

MY FRIEND AND COMPANION ABROAD, 



PREFACE. 



An account of a trip abroad is always interesting to the great 
majority, and when upon the author's return from Germany 
she was beset with questions about the voyage, different coun- 
tries, cities and peoples, she found it impossible to answer 
them satisfactorily in a short time. Often, too, she foigot to 
mention the most interesting facts. 

In the spring of '94 was formed the project of writing a 
short history of the journey, and having it published, under 
the title of "Notes on Travel," in a series of ten pamphlets, — 
the first to appear in May, and the others semi-mouthl}- until 
the number should be complete. 

The project was carried out, and the "Notes" were so well 
received that the author has been encouraged to enlarge them ; 
and it is with the hope that this little book may prove not 
only entertaining, but also instructive and helpful, that it is 
sent before the public. 

Elizabeth E. Miliar. 



CONTENTS. 



Chapter. Page. 

I. The Voyage. — Preliminaries — Passengers — First 
Days— Whales— The Old Lady— Bible Lost- 
English Channel— Isle of Wight— Boulogne. - i 
II. Holland. — Scenery— The Doctor — Rotterdam— For 

eign Trains— Trunk Lost. - - - 14 

III. Cologne.— The Cathedral— The Continental Sun 

day— Zoological Garden— Theater. - 19 

IV. Up the Rhine. — Bonn — Nonnenwerth and Legend- 

Places of Interest — Lorelei — Mouse Tower and 
Legend — Bingen. .... 24 

V. Mainz to Leipsic— Torchlight Procession— Cen- 
tral Germany — The Wartburg. - - 31 

VI. Leipsic— Experiences and Sights of First Two 

Weeks ------ 35 

VII. Places of Historical Interest. — Pleissenburg — 
Napoleoustein — Schiller House — Queer Passage 
ways — Goethe House — Nikolaikirche. - 49 

VIII. The University. — Experiences at — Installation of 

Rector — Boat-ride. - - - - 55 

IX. Christmas and New Year. - - 65 

X. A Medley. — Shopping — Circus — German Cooking — 
Receptions — Coffees — Confirmation — Carl Rein- 
ecke — Sarasate — Careno and D'Albert — Rubin- 
stein — King and Queen of Saxony — Auerbach's 
Keller. - - - - - - 71 

XI. The Great Fair. — Appearance of Streets— Articles 

for Sale — Sunday — Amusements. - - 84 



Vlil CONTEXTS. 

XII. Spring Excursions — Monarchenhuegel — Doelitz— 

Rosenthal — Scheibenholz. - - 8g 

XIII. Berlin. —Zoological Garden — Aquarium — Unter 

den Linden — Royal Palace — Magic Flute — Pal- 
ace of Wilkelm I. — Mausoleum — Rosa Sucher — 
Old Museum — At the Station. - - 92 

XIV. Dresden.— Scenery— Bruehl Terrace — The "Zoo" — 

Grosser Garten — Sistine Madonna — The Opera. 104 
XV. Weimar. - The Schiller and Goethe Homes — Park- 
Remains of Goethe and Schiller — Statue of 
Herder. - - - - 112 

XVI. London. — Journey to — The Bank — Street Scenes- 

Westminster Abbey— Parliament Houses — Na- 
tional Gallery — Hyde Park — John Wesley's 
House — Grave of Buuyan — The Tower. - 121 

XVII. Across the Atlantic and up the St. Lawren< e. 

Liverpool — Stormy Weather— Icebergs — Cod 
Fishiug — Sunset on the St. Lawrence — Phos- 
phorescent Lights — Quebec — Montreal — Thou- 
sand Islands — Conclusion. - - - 131 

XVIII. Suggestions to those Intending to go Abroad. 144 



FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 



OF 



AN AMERICAN GIRL. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE VOYAGE. 

SINCE childhood the greatest desire of my life 
has been to visit foreign lands, and when a 
number of years ago at Chautauqua, N. Y., I ex- 
pressed my determination to go to Germany to 
study at the first opportunity that should offer, a 
friend of mine, a young lady, said, "I will go with 
you." Thus an agreement was made, but neither of 
us thought that the time for its fulfillment was near 
at hand. However, the Fates were propitious, and 
almost before we realized it, preparations for the 
journey had been made, and one morning, late in the 
summer of '92, found us at Meadville, awaiting the 
morning train for New York, from which place we 
were to sail the following Saturday via the Nether- 
land's Line. 



2 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

On account of floods and a partial derailment of 
our engine, we were about five hours behind time, 
when we arrived at New York. It seemed almost 
incredible that it was long past midnight, for the 
part of the city through which we passed was all 
astir. The brilliant lights showed vehicles of many- 
kinds on the streets; stores were open, and so many 
about that one wondered when the New Yorkers 
slept. When our hotel was reached, we were disap- 
pointed at finding it full, but the porter was so kind 
as to conduct us to another near by. Next morning 
it was raining, but we crossed the Brooklyn Bridge, 
saw some of the public buildings, and walked up 
Broadway. Our visit to Central Park was deferred 
on account of the unpleasant weather. 

As our steamer was to sail next morning from 
Hoboken, we passed the night at that place. Poor 
creatures! Little did we know what awaited us! 
We had a room with canopied bed. That the can- 
opy was of rose-colored mosquito-netting did not at 
the time arouse our suspicions, but shortly after re- 
tiring we heard an ominous hum, and began to 
realize what the canopy was for. We had not care- 
fully closed the curtains, and soon were called upon 
to battle with Jersey mosquitoes. As long as we 
kept awake we could keep them off, but when we 
entered the "Land of Nod," the_\- gained a glorious 
victor)', and we withdrew next morning from the 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 3 

field, with swollen lips and eyelids, looking, indeed, 
utterly defeated. However, there was no time for 
grieving, we must procure steamer-chairs, and see 
whether our baggage had been transferred to the 
boat. 

At the dock there was a busy scene. Sailors 
were hurrying back and forth, conveying the last 
articles upon the vessel; trunks were being lowered 
into the hold; baggage carried to the staterooms; 
and the steerage passengers provided with new mat- 
tresses. Our arrangements completed, we went on 
board and seated ourselves on deck. Passengers 
kept arriving, many accompanied by friends, and on 
the wharf stood a motley crowd, awaiting the de- 
parture of the boat. The scene became more quiet. 
The signal for visitors to leave was given; the gang- 
planks were pulled in; the cables loosed; the 
whistle blown; and we were off for Europe. We 
stood watching the waving handkerchiefs at the 
dock, until they disappeared from view, and then 
turned our attention to the attractive scenes about 
us. Behind, like some huge spider-web, stretched 
Brooklyn Bridge; at our right, majestic "Liberty" 
held aloft her beaming torch; about us were all 
sorts of craft, from the little row-boat to the stately 
ocean steamer, and as we glided along, strong fort- 
resses, large hotels, and summer residences were 
passed. 



4 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

A few short hours afterward we were well out at 
sea, and all that could be seen of the land was a dim 
outline. The breeze became stiffer, and the boat 
more unsteady, but everybody was yet in high 
spirits, and when the luncheon bell rang at noon it 
was a welcome sound. Places were assigned us at 
the first mate's table, where also sat three other 
officers, a German baron, a French governess and 
her pupil, a student of art and one of music, and a 
supposed actress. Among the other passengers 
were an American consul to Switzerland; an artist, 
accompanied by his wife, and beautiful golden-haired 
little girl, the only child on board; students going 
to Paris and Leipsic, and pleasure seekers. 

After luncheon all again went on deck, some to 
watch the dashing of the spray against the sides of 
the vessel, others to promenade, chat, or read. 
Time passed so quickly that ere we were aware of it 

5 o'clock had come, and with it dinner. After this 
excellent meal, it seemed as though no one would 
care for anything more that day; but at 9 o'clock 
supper was eaten. It was destined, though, to be the 
last meal for several days for some poor mortals. 
All were yet feeling well on retiring, but in the night 
doleful sounds were heard in adjoining state-rooms, 
and next morning but few were at the breakfast 
table. One by one they succumbed, until the ship 
was turned into a temporary hospital. Some re- 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 5 

mained down stairs, but the majority were on deck, 
lying on benches or steamer-chairs. 

During the next few days all was very quiet on 
board, but we who were so fortunate as to escape 
sea-sickness did not lack entertainment. There 
was the grand, ever-changing ocean, now heav- 
ing us aloft on the crest of a billow, then as sud- 
denly dropping us into the trough of the sea, 
and as the vessel in spite of all this kept plough- 
ing along, dashing the spray about, the water re- 
coiled from its sides, surging and foaming, looking 
like drifting snow on the emerald deep. Then there 
were the sea-swallows and sea-gulls, the passing 
ships, and a thousand things about the boat that in- 
terested us. We spent considerable time watching 
the sailors clambering up and down the rope-ladders, 
or furling and unfurling the sails twenty or thirty 
feet above the deck. It made us almost dizzy to 
look at them as they lay across the spars, their 
heads on one side, and their feet on the other, with 
nothing to steady them but a slender rope passing 
under the heels. 

Among those who escaped illness was Mr. A., 
and one morning, as my friend and I were lounging 
on deck, he took a seat near us. We entered into 
conversation and were surprised to learn that he also 
was going to Leipsic — our destination. Suddenly 
he said, " If you wish to see some large fishes, just 



6 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

look out there." We hastened to the side of the 
vessel, and there, apparently running a race with us, 
was a number of porpoises, or sea-hogs as they are 
called by some, and indeed they somewhat remind 
one of swine, their bodies are so plump. They 
looked almost black, were from five to six feet long, 
and had large dorsal and tail fins. They seemed to 
be having a grand frolic, jumping about from wave 
to wave, and keeping up with the vessel at the same 
time. They followed us perhaps a half hour, and 
then disappeared. 

In the course of a few days the sick had mostly 
recovered, and when we tired of chatting or reading, 
we had music and games. The evenings passed so 
pleasantly that it was often eleven o'clock when we 
retired, and when morning came we were so sleepy 
that we could scarcely rise. Several times we were 
late at breakfast, and the doctor, a jovial, entertain- 
ing bachelor, laughingly threatened to have us sent 
for, if we should be late again. We all were so well 
acquainted that it seemed we had known one another 
for years, except the baron, who seemed to hold 
himself aloof and associate only with the officers. 
One day, however, the captain told one of the ladies 
that the baron was offended, because none of us had 
spoken to him. We, knowing that he was a Ger- 
man, thought he ought to address us first, as that is 
the custom in Germany, but he expected us to make 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. J 

the first advances, because we were Americans. The 
ladies, now understanding his reserve, conversed with 
him, and after this he was very courteous to all. 

Thus far it had been delightfully warm, but as we 
left the Gulf Stream, the temperature fell. We were 
all anxious to see icebergs and whales, and the cap- 
tain told us we might catch a glimpse of them now 
at any time, but the fog soon became so dense that 
we could see nothing. We were in the "banks" off 
Newfoundland. And dreary enough it was ! The 
gray vapory wall was all about us, and the solemn 
warning tone of the fog-horn drowned all else, and 
filled us with a nameless dread. 

One morning, after passing through the "Devil's 
Hole" — so called on account of the frequent storms 
there — the fog had partly cleared away and one 
could see two or three miles. Mr. N., the artist, was 
carrying his little daughter about, when he espied a 
whale, and soon all were straining their eyes to catch 
a glimpse of it. It was far away and could only be 
detected by its spouting. I failed to see it, but soon 
we discovered six others. We were all much inter- 
ested, and watched them as long as we could, 
occasionally catching sight of their huge backs and 
tails. 

When we were about halfway across the Atlantic 
the wind arose and with it the waves. Many of the 
passengers again became ill, but some of us suffered 



8 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

not the slightest inconvenience. The marine specta- 
cle was grand beyond description. The immense 
swells reminded one of numberless racing hills, and 
as I gazed upon them, and thought of whence they 
had come and whither they were going, what shores 
they had visited, and what mysteries were theirs, I 
better realized the omnipotence of the Creator. 

A passing ship always created excitement on 
board. Some days we saw two or three, others, 
none at all. Often at the horizon we spied the 
smoke of steamers, before we could see anything of 
the boats themselves. As soon as they came into 
view the captain scrutinized them closely through 
his glass, and if they came near enough, signaled by 
means of flags run up on a line attached to one of 
the masts. Different combinations of the flags have 
different significations, and, as many combinations 
are possible, much can be expressed in this way. 
The signal was always answered, so that we knew 
what kind of a vessel had passed us. Those that 
appeared most picturesque were a Norwegian, and a 
Turkish sailing vessel, which, in the blue distance, 
looked like phantom ships sailing in the sky. 

On the deck to which the second-class passengers 
were confined, we frequently noticed an old woman, 
who seemed to be without friends. Her sad and 
lonely air, as she sat there knitting, touched our 
hearts, and we determined to speak to her as soon 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. Q 

as possible. The second Sunday out we had divine 
services, to which the second-class passengers came — 
among them the old lady. This was our chance, 
and at the close of the services Miss G. and I ex- 
changed a few words with her, and learned that she 
was German and could speak no English. She also 
was the only woman traveling second-class. We 
asked the captain whether she might not come over 
to visit us, and he said, "Yes, do all the good you 
can." Miss G. and I, who both could speak Ger- 
man, called to see the old woman, and invited her 
to visit us as often as she felt so inclined. She was 
delighted, and visited us a number of times, and 
told us her story. 

Her son had gone to America a number of years 
before and settled in Michigan, where he married. 
He had always been a good, kind, dutiful son, and 
when his father died at Mainz, requested his mother 
to come to America, and spend the remainder of 
her days with him. She had gone, but was mal- 
treated by her daughter-in-law. She had endured it 
perhaps a year, and then had packed up and gone 
to visit a friend in one of the other states, and after- 
ward, without letting her son know of her intention, 
had embarked for Europe. She was returning to 
Mainz, where a married daughter resided. Her 
daughter would always be kind to her, she said, but 
she lived in a hotel, of which her husband was pro- 



IO FOREIGN EXPERIEN'CES 

prietor, and had a family, so that it would not be a 
quiet place for an old person to stay. She gave us 
her daughter's address, and wished us to call there 
when we stopped at Mainz, but time was too short, 
and the last we saw of our old friend was when we 
bade her good-by at Rotterdam. 

A laughable incident took place one morning, 
shortly before the end of the voyage. I was read- 
ing the Bible, when something attracted my atten- 
tion, and laying some of my heavy wraps and the 
Bible upon my steamer-chair, I went away for a few 
minutes. When I returned my Bible was gone, and 
no one about had seen it. Just then the captain ap- 
proached us, and I jokingly said, "Captain, did you 
take my Bible?" A mischievous expression stole 
over his face, as he searched his pockets, and looked 
about the deck. Then going to the hatchway he 
pressed the electric button for the chief steward, 
who swiftly came to learn the captain's will. I was 
rather uneasy, and wondered what was going to be 
done, when the captain, in his most commanding 
tone, said, "This lady has lost her Bible; go, seek 
everywhere." The steward disappeared as suddenly 
as he had come, and soon returned with the Bible, 
handing it to me with a most deferential bow. I 
did not ask where he had found it, but learned from 
Miss M. that she, thinking I had finished reading, 
had taken it to our state-room. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I I 

The purser of the boat — a handsome young 
Dutchman — attracted considerable attention among 
the ladies. One evening, Miss S., an artist, per- 
suaded him to give her a sitting, and as she sketched, 
the other girls gathered about to look on. Mr. D. 
was strengthened during the ordeal, which lasted 
three-fourths of an hour, by candy and pea-nuts, 
given him by the sympathetic young ladies. He 
was pleased with the artist's effort, and wrote his 
name beneath the sketch. 

Thus did the days glide pleasantly by, and one 
bright morning found us in the English Channel. 
We had in the night passed the high and rocky 
Scilly Islands, which are surrounded by the waters 
of the Gulf Stream, and where grow the lovely roses 
that adorn the London drawing-rooms in winter. 
While at breakfast we passed near Cape Lizard, on 
which we saw a light-house and a few other build- 
ings. All were now eager to view the shore, and 
the last bites were hurriedly swallowed, wraps 
donned, and the decks sought. We were being 
borne farther away from land, so that objects could 
not readily be distinguished except with the aid of 
a glass, but it was a charming view, nevertheless. 
Over all was the blue dome of heaven; beneath, the 
Nile-green expanse of the channel, dotted with 
many sails; and at our left, the kaleidoscopic colors 
of the landscape. A line of white along the shore 



12 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

betrayed the breakers, farther back a predominance 
of darkest green told of whispering woods, and 
patches of red and yellow in emerald settings gave 
knowledge of ripening crops in hedged fields. 
White dots on high promontories showed the loca- 
tion of light-houses and signal-stations, and dashes 
of color here and there on shore and hill made 
known the existence of village and town. 

As we advanced the vessels about us became very 
numerous, and the captain remained at his post all 
night to guard against possible collisions. A sailor 
in a kind of box, called the " Crow's Nest," half way 
up the foremast, also kept watch, and when the 
bells on the ship rang at the end of every half hour, 
shouted, "All's well!" 

During the evening, while watching the many 
warning-lights along the shore, some of which were 
stationary and some revolving, we noticed one of 
unusual brilliancy shining almost like a sun, and 
were informed that it was the Isle of Wight. A 
cluster of smaller lights in the rear shone from the 
dwellings, and we wondered which were in Queen 
Victoria's and Tennyson's summer residences. The 
night was mild and calm and still, and the Queen 
of Heaven riding majestically along marked out 
with her magic wand a silver}- way, in which the 
wavelets merrily danced. Gazing out into the dis- 
tance we saw a boat with sails all set approaching, 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 13 

and soon like some white-winged bird it flitted across 
the silvery path and disappeared, but the picture 
remains as a masterpiece in Memory's gallery. 

Next morning valises were being packed, trunks 
raised from the hold, and all put in readiness to drop 
the anchor. We were now not far from Boulogne, 
where some of the passengers were to leave us. We 
could see nothing at first as it was foggy, but after a 
time it became clearer, and we could see the dark 
outlines of the coast of France. In the course of a 
few hours the command, "Let go the anchor!" was 
given, and the vessel came to a stand-still in water 
tinted with every shade of green. Before us, partly 
concealed in a valley, the city lay basking in the 
sunshine, and soon a small boat came puffing out to 
us. A Frenchman with dark hair and moustache 
tossed the captain a bundle of papers, and told him 
that the cholera had increased much since we left 
New York. Those of the passengers who were go- 
ing to land at Boulogne bade us good-by, entered 
the boat, and soon with tearful faces were borne 
away, waving their handkerchiefs as long as they 
could see us. We, too, soon weighed anchor and 
went on our way. We felt sad and lonely after part- 
ing from our acquaintances and were filled with 
anxious forebodings concerning the cholera. Dur- 
ing the night we again anchored near the river Maas, 
until the tide should be in our favor. 



14 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 



CHAPTER II. 

HOLLAND. 

AT three o'clock in the morning we were called and 
told to hold ourselves in readiness to receive the 
doctor, as he would ere long come on board. The 
boat was now again under way, and we had the privi- 
lege of seeing the sun rise over the low swampy 
shore of Holland. We were soon steaming up the 
river, and were much amused when some one said, 
"Oh, there's a horse!" as though we had not seen 
one for years. To be sure we had been on the ocean 
two weeks, and all sights and sounds of the land 
now seemed doubly dear to us. The scenes about 
us were most novel and picturesque. The dikes, 
the windmills, the low-lying verdant meadows, the 
canals, the grazing herds, the thatched cottages, the 
sheltering firs, the trim gardens, and the quaint dress 
of the peasantry, filled us with delight. 

After proceeding a number of miles, the doctor 
and custom-house officers came on board. The 
doctor had with him his son, a little, black curly- 
haired fellow, with large expressive eyes, who at 
once won the hearts of all the ladies. On account of 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I 5 

the cholera every one on board had to be sprinkled 
with disinfectant — first the crew and then the passen- 
gers. Before we were aware of what was taking 
place, Mr. A., laughing, came to us and called our 
attention to the proceedings on the lower deck, and 
informed us that we would be subjected to the same 
treatment. He was so anxioajs to see the fun that 
he could scarcely wait until we went below, and 
when the doctor sprinkled our clothing with the solu- 
tion, Mr. A. stood by laughing heartily. We, too, had 
to laugh, when, as Miss D. turned to go, the doctor 
threw some of the liquid from his brush at her and 
wet her back hair, which she had so beautifully 
curled that morning. The custom-house officers 
next desired our attention. Our trunks were opened 
and examined and then we were free to go on deck 
again. 

We were now entering Rotterdam, and soon came 
to the wharf, where a crowd of hackmen, draymen, 
and loafers were awaiting our arrival. It was with 
regret that we parted from our fellow-passengers, and 
left the ship, which had come to seem like home to 
us. A party of four of us had decided to go up the 
Rhine together. We were going by rail to Cologne, 
and there take a boat, but as we could not get a 
train until afternoon, we took a cab for Hotel Maas. 
As we were driven through the streets we caught 
glimpses of strange sights: women and dogs draw- 



1 6 . FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

ing carts laden with market produce; peasants clat- 
tering along in wooden shoes; and women with 
large earrings, prominent'ornaments on each side of 
the forehead, and white head-dresses — the personifi- 
cation of neatness and quaintness. 

Hotel Maas, with its white marble entrance adorned 
with conservatory plants, impressed us favorably. 
Here we left our baggage and then sought one of 
the banks, a large, handsomely appointed and dura- 
ble building. Our business being attended to, we 
took a short walk. Had we been inclined to forget 
the day of the week, (Saturday) we would have been 
forcibly reminded of it ere we had proceeded far. 
Everywhere servant girls were sweeping, scrubbing, 
and beating rugs. Even some of the streets were 
deluged with water, and women were cleaning them. 
As we picked our way over the damp pavements, we 
noticed the numerous canals and sail-boats in the 
very heart of the city. 

When we returned to the hotel for dinner, we were 
delighted to find a number of our steamer friends 
there. After dining with them we went on another 
short exploring tour about the city. We were struck 
with the durability of everything; the stone pave- 
ments; the strong walls of the canals; the solid 
stone and iron bridges; and the brick and stone 
buildings — all will last for centuries. The dwelling- 
houses are of fanciful designs, usually high and nar- 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. If 

row, with many dormer windows. The small front 
yards are enclosed by high vine-covered iron fences, 
through which one catches glimpses of freshly grav- 
elled walks, shrubbery, and odd combinations of 
bright colored flowers. 

The time soon came for us to go to the depot. 
Here we had our trunks weighed and forwarded by 
freight, as one is allowed only a small amount of 
baggage with him, and it is very expensive to pay ex- 
press charges on a large trunk. We had some 
amusing experiences with the officials, as some spoke 
only Dutch; others, German and a little English. 

Shortly before the time for our departure, a queer 
looking train backed into the station. The coaches 
were short, and divided crosswise into a number of 
compartments, entered by doors in the side of the 
car. We had a compartment to ourselves and found 
the two high cushioned seats, facing each other, very 
comfortable. It was like the inside of a barouche, 
only that there was more space. For a number of 
hours the country through which we rode was a suc- 
cession of small rectangular islands, formed by the 
intersecting canals, and almost every cottage had a 
boat tied before it. We had been speeding along 
for some time through these Venetian-like scenes, 
when Miss D. suddenly exclaimed, "Oh, my steamer- 
trunk!" We wondered what she could mean, and 
she explained that it had just flashed across her 



1 8 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

mind that she had not had her steamer-trunk trans- 
ferred from the dock to the depot. In attending to 
her hand-baggage and large trunk, the smaller one 
had been forgotten. The tears stood in the poor 
girl's eyes as she thought of the valuable articles 
that would be lost, could she not regain the trunk. 
What to do! Already we were almost a hundred 
miles from Rotterdam. For all to return would in- 
cur much loss of time and money, and Miss D. did 
not wish to return alone. Finally, we telegraphed 
to a friend, who was yet in Rotterdam, and asked 
her to look up the trunk, which she promised to do, 
but whether Miss D. ever regained it, I do not know, 
as we went our separate ways soon after. 

As we approached Germany the canals became less 
and less numerous, until they finally disappeared. 
At the frontier station, Emerich, we had to open all 
our baggage for inspection. When we had again 
entered the car, a doctor went the rounds to see if 
any had symptoms of cholera. He put his head 
into our compartment, but evidently thought we 
were a healthy looking crowd, for he smiled as he 
said, "Alle gesund?" 

About 9:45 p. m. we saw the lights of Cologne re- 
flected in the storied Rhine of which I had read, 
thought, and dreamed! How my heart thrilled with 
joy as I gazed at the mirror-like surface all aglow 
from the lights along the shore, and on the bridges! 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 19 



CHAPTER III. 

COLOGNE. 

ALIGHTING in the spacious station, we soon 
found the way to Hotel Continental, which 
stands in the shade of the grand cathedral. The 
house was full, but, by setting up extra beds, room 
was made for us. We had been able to get no sup- 
per until now, and were very hungry. And how 
delicious everything was! The butter, and bread of 
which there were three or four kinds, were especially 
good, and the loaf and large knife, placed on the 
table, kept traveling about from one plate to another. 
Luncheon over we retired to our respective rooms. 
Three of us girls were together, but each had her 
own bed, as is customary in Germany. Such fat 
little beds as they were, too, with their feather cov- 
erings! When we had succeeded in getting into 
them, we lay looking at each other and laughing, for 
each peeped out from under a miniature mountain. 
Soon after breakfast, next morning, the cathedral 
bells were ringing, and donning our wraps we went 
to attend services in the beautiful Gothic structure. 
How much of history is connected with those gray 
stone walls, the beautiful carving, and the lofty 



20 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

towers, while completing which six centuries rolled 
away! The marble and mosaic floors were that 
morning pressed by the feet of many hundreds, and 
the subdued light coming through the variously 
tinted and beautifully designed windows, revealed 
many who were unable to obtain seats, among whom 
we were included. Becoming somewhat weary, we 
leaned against one of the massive stone columns 
supporting the roof, and listened to the deep tones 
of the organ as they resounded among the lofty 
arches, and then dying away bore our thoughts up 
to God. The sermon was not so impressive, as we 
could not see the priest, nor hear all he said. 

In the evening we had the opportunity of seeing 
life as it is in Germany on a Sunday. And novel 
enough it seems to an American, for it is the liveliest 
day of the whole week! There are dances, concerts, 
plays, and shows without number. The principal 
streets were so crowded that we could scarcely make 
our way through. Old and young, rich and poor, 
were hurrying by. Not only did they occupy the 
sidewalks, but the middle of the street also, and the 
coachmen of the carriages that were out were obliged 
to drive very slowly, and frequently to shout and 
crack the whip. Soon we came to an arcade, and 
here was a gay scene, certainly; the same multitude 
passing along a brilliantly lighted, glass-covered 
passage lined with man)- restaurants, through whose 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 21 

unshaded windows one saw families, friends, and 
lovers seated about small tables, and eating light 
luncheons, or having a social glass of beer or wine. 
Strains of music, borne to us on the evening air, told 
of beer-gardens not far away, and thus on every 
hand we were greeted by gay sights and lively 
sounds. This was our first Sunday abroad. 

Monday was a delightful September day and we 
enjoyed it to the full. We looked about the city for 
some time, and as everybody does, stopped at a 
store to buy some cologne — named after the city be- 
cause first manufactured at that place. Then going 
to the river we took a boat for the Zoological Gar- 
den, which we reached in about ten minutes. The 
first thing that attracted our attention was an exhi- 
bition-building where wax-works, pictures, relics, and 
a wonderful bearded woman from America, were to 
be seen. The wax-works were good, there being 
many historical figures in the collection. Some that 
were placed about the room were so natural that 
coming upon them suddenly we stepped back to let 
them pass, and were about to beg pardon, when we 
were struck by their rigidity. The pictures, which 
were viewed through large magnifying glasses, were 
beautiful, and the relics, interesting, but the bearded 
woman we had no admiration for, and judging from 
the fluency with which she spoke German, I think 
she had never even seen America. 



22 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

Up»tairs we came to a variety of mirrors and were 
soon lost in contemplation of ourselves. Do not 
think us vain. It was not admiration that held us 
there, but amusement at our own reflections. It 
seemed as though a roomful of dime-museum won- 
ders had suddenly stepped before us — the fat woman, 
the lean man, the dwarf, and creatures distorted in 
every way. We laughed and laughed, until I began 
to think we would never get out of the building 
alive, but summoning all our powers of control, we 
succeeded in restoring gravity, although for some 
time after our lips would twitch in the most unac- 
countable manner. 

We wandered about through the Zoological Gar- 
den until we became weary, and then entered a beer- 
garden in the midst of a beautiful park. Here were 
gathered the beauty and fashion of Cologne. Men, 
women, and children were seated on the spacious 
balconies of the establishment and at the hundreds 
of little tables in the surrounding park. A band in a 
neighboring pavilion discoursed excellent music, and 
the waiters were hurrying about with bread, cake, and 
drinks of various kinds — beer predominating. An 
hour or so was spent by some over a single glass, the 
women occupying themselves with their fancy-work, 
the men smoking, and the children playing about. 
Seating ourselves at one of the tables, we ordered 
some mineral water over which we awhile watched 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 23 

the bright and ever-changing picture, and then 
wended our way hotelward, along the gravelled 
walks circling through verdant, shady lawns, where 
fountains played and flowers bloomed. 

In the evening it was our privilege to hear Schil- 
ler's "Kabale und Liebe" rendered by good talent. 
When we were about to pass in to take our seats, an 
old lady called to us to leave our hats and wraps with 
her. We paid no attention as we thought it was a 
scheme of hers to make money, but she called a num- 
ber of times and concluded by saying, "Be assured, 
my ladies, if you do not take off your hats, you will 
be sent out, " so we finally yielded, and gave her 
twenty pfennige (5 cts.) for the check. At the door, 
programs were furnished for ten pfennige. When we 
entered the parquet we soon noticed that all women 
— as well as men — had left their hats and wraps out- 
side in the cloak-rooms. This is customary all 
through Germany, and the Americans would do well 
to copy. In another way also the Germans are far 
more polite than we. When any one arrives late at 
a play, he usually stands back in the aisle, until the 
end of a scene before taking his seat, and thus the 
pleasure of hundreds is not spoiled by the selfishness 
of one. 



24 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 



CHAPTER IV. 

UP THE RHINE. 

OUR delightful stay at Cologne had come to an 
end, and we now found ourselves seated on the 
spacious deck of a Rhine boat. At first the wind 
blew so hard that we could with difficulty keep our 
hats on, but later it became calm and the day was 
perfect. 

The scenery from Cologne to Bonn is very ordi- 
nary, the land being low, and dotted with clumps of 
trees, and villages; but it seems fortunate that it is so, 
for one is better prepared after a series of reflections 
to appreciate the beauties that follow. As we swiftly 
glide along on the Alpine-born stream, it speaks to 
usof Roman soldiers, whose steady tramp, tramp, once 
resounded along the shores; of the battle-cry and clash 
of arms that floated from those distant hills, as the 
barons who occupied the now ruinous castles waged 
war against one another; and of the multitude of char- 
acters found in legend, song, and poem. 

Of the few and short stops that our boat made, the 
first was at Bonn, the seat of a university and the 
birth-place of Beethoven. Three-quarters of an hour 
later we had reached the Siebengebirge, a group of 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 25 

volcanic mountains, from which the stone used in the 
construction of the cathedral at Cologne was taken. 
On two of the neighboring peaks, the castles, Drachen- 
fels and Rolandseck, are seen, and in the center of 
the river is the island of Nonnenwerth, above whose 
tree-tops rise the chimneys of a convent. 

The legend concerning the castles and island is, 
that a nephew of Charles the Great, Knight Roland 
by name, who was renowned for his brave deeds, one 
night desired lodging at Drachenfels. He was cor- 
dially welcomed, and when morning came was urged 
to remain longer, which he gladly did, as he had at 
first sight fallen in love with the host's beautiful 
daughter, the Countess of Drachenfels. As the days 
went by Roland loved to watch the flowers growing 
on the linen which the countess was embroidering, 
and she in turn, to listen to his experiences in foreign 
lands. Thus the time passed quickly and pleasantly, 
until one day when came the news of an approaching 
conflict with the Huns. Duty called and Roland 
must go, but before taking leave, he wished once 
more to visit all the places in the garden, where he 
had passed so many happy hours. Lost in reverie, 
he was slowly walking along, when he heard low 
sobs proceeding from a honeysuckle arbor. He 
quietly approached and looked in, and there beheld 
his adored one shedding tears at the thought of his 
departure. How happy was Roland to know that 



26 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

his love was returned! And what passionate words 
he now poured forth into the countess' willing ear! 
The parents were no less pleased, and gave a banquet 
in honor of the betrothal. Then Roland, donning his 
armor, mounted his charger and rode away. 

During the war, Roland's bravery was a common 
theme, and when the close of the contest drew near 
his return was eagerly awaited. But he came not, and 
others brought the report of his death upon the 
battle-field. As time passed the countess became 
more and more sorrowful, and determining to spend 
the remainder of her days in prayer, entered the con- 
vent on the island of Nonnenwerth. 

One morning, a number of years afterward, Roland 
joyously galloped up to the castle, but he was fright- 
ened at the sad looks of his friends, and on hearing 
of his betrothed's having become a nun was in despair. 
Hoping to catch sight of her occasionally, he built 
castle Rolandseck on one of the neighboring peaks, 
opposite the convent. 

One evening while seated on his balcony, he heard 
the convent bell toll, and saw the nuns carrying a black 
casket to the burying-ground, and as the funeral 
dirge floated up to him he buried his head in his 
hands and wept. He had a presentiment that it was 
his loved one, who had gone to the spirit-land, and 
soon learned that it was indeed sin-. Wishing to 
join her as soon as possible, Roland went to distant 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 2J 

battle-fields, where he bravely met death, some time 
after. 

Beyond the Siebengebirge a series of delightful 
surprises were in store for us, and everything was so 
beautiful that we seemed to be living through the 
scenes in a story-book. 

" 'Twas morn, and beauteous on the mountain's brow 
(Hung with the blushes of the bending vine) 
Streamed the blue light, when on the sparkling Rhine 
We bounded, and the white waves round the prow 
In murmurs parted; varying as we go, 
I v o ! the woods open and rocks retire; 
Some convent's ancient walls, or glistening spire 
'Mid the bright landscape's tract unfolding slow. 
Here dark with furrowed aspect like despair, 
Hangs the bleak cliff, there on the woodland's side 
The shadowy sunshine pours its streaming tide; 
Whilst Hope, enchanted with a scene so fair, 
Would wish to linger many a summer's day, 
Nor heeds how fast the prospect winds away." 

To mention all the villages and cities passed would 
be both tedious and uninteresting, so I shall men- 
tion but a few: Appollinarisberg, noted for its min- 
eral water; Oberhammerstein, the refuge place, in 
1 105, of Henry IV of Rome; Andernach, containing 
the ruins of a city gate built by the Romans; Weis- 
senthurm, near which is a monument in memory of 
the French general, Hoche; Ehrenbreitstein, the 
German Gibraltar; Coblenz, the capital of the Prus- 
sian Rhenish provinces; and Rhense, whither the 



28 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

emperor and electors formerly came to consult on af- 
fairs of State. 

Just beyond Rhense is an immense bend in the 
river, and the mountains, which have been growing 
taller, have approached the water so closely that 
their projecting bases would cut off all travel along 
the banks of the river, were it not for numerous tun- 
nels, and roads winding up the mountain-side. 
Lonely towers, shattered walls, and ancient castles 
look down from their respective heights upon the ter- 
raced vineyards and the nestling villages. And see! 
yonder majestically rises Mount Lorelei, where as 
the story goes, a beautiful mermaid used often to sit, 
and comb her beautiful hair, while she sang songs of 
wondrous sweetness. As we glide past this rocky 
and precipitous mountain, Heine's popular poem, 
"The Lorelei," comes to mind. 

" I know not whence it rises, 
This thought so full of woe, 
But a tale of times departed 
Haunts me, and will not go. 

The air is cool and it darkens, 
And calmly flows the Rhine; 
The mountain peaks are sparkling 
In the sunny evening-shine. 

And yonder sits a maiden, — 
The fairest of the fair ; 
With gold is her garment glittering, 
And she combs her golden hair. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 29 

With a golden comb she combs it, 
And a wild song singeth she, 
That melts the heart with a wondrous 
And powerful melody. 

The boatman feels his bosom 
With a nameless longing move : 
He sees not the gulf before him, — 
His gaze is fixed above. 

I believe over boat and boatman, 
In the end the billows run ; 
And 'tis this that with her singing 
By the Lorelei was done." 

As day was drawing to a close, and the shadows 
were stealing across the river, we passed the Mouse 
Tower, which is situated on a rock in the center of 
the stream. In the Middle Ages the tower served 
as a toll-station, and afterwards as a signal-station, 
where by means of drawing in a flag, ships sailing 
down the river were timely warned of others coming 
up through the Bingerloch — a powerful whirlpool 
caused by immense rocks on both sides, which forced 
the river to pass through a narrow channel, since 
somewhat widened by blasting. 

The legend connected with the Mouse Tower is 
that Hatto, Archbishop of Mainz, during a famine 
kept his well-filled granaries locked, and lived more 
sumptuously than usual to attract attention. The 
people incensed at this inhumanity revolted, but 
many paid the penalty with their lives. The ring- 



30 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

leaders were confined in a barn, and burned to death, 
and when they were crying out in their misery, the 
archbishop made sport of them, and likened their 
cries to the squeaking of mice. During the following 
night, thousands of mice invaded the archbishop's 
palace, and began to tear his flesh. He fled and had 
a bed hung on chains in the Tower in the center of 
the Rhine, but to no avail. The mice reached him 
and gnawed his flesh away. 

"Bingen, dear Bingen on the Rhine" soon after lay 
before us. Nestling at the foot of the Rochus 
mountain, with the Nahe river gliding past into the 
Rhine, it seemed that evening like a town in some 
enchanted land. The thin haze about it imparted a 
dreamy aspect, and the sunset glow was too exquisite 
for mortal pen to picture. Ere long the beautiful 
sight had faded away in the distance, and new scenes 
were attracting our attention. At our left was the 
Niederwald, and half way up the sloping mountain 
side, the National Monument, built to commemorate 
the victory of the war of 1870-71. All objects 
were soon lost in the gathering darkness, and we 
contented ourselves with watching the lights along 
the shore, and their reflection in the water, until we 
reached Mainz, which was all ablaze with different 
colored lights. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 31 



CHAPTER V. 

FROM MAINZ TO LEIPSIC. 



IT was evident that some celebration was in prog- 
ress at Mainz, and we soon ascertained that the 
display was in honor of the Duke of Hesse, who 
was present for the purpose of reviewing the troops. 

Hotel Holland was not far from the dock, but we 
had to await the passing of a monster torch-light 
procession before we could reach it. The porter, 
who had charge of our baggage, entertained us by 
naming some of the numerous organizations and 
trades represented in the parade, each having some 
special design in colored lights, besides the line of 
torches on either side. Music was furnished by 
many bands, and as the multitude of people filed 
past with brilliant colored lights, waving banners, 
and flaming torches, we counted ourselves fortunate 
to have arrived just in time to witness the dazzling 
parade. It was past midnight before the city be- 
came quiet, and once after I had fallen asleep, I 
remember being awakened by some one loudly sing- 
ing a German song in the street below. 

Next morning, after a somewhat hurried break- 



32 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

fast, we were driven to the depot where we took 
leave of Miss D., who was going to Switzerland, and 
then just had time to catch the train for Leipsic. 
As far as Frankfort-on-the-Main we had a compart- 
ment of the car to ourselves, but here we were 
obliged to share it with a Russian and his wife, who 
were returning from a summer's outing among the 
Alps. They piled their baggage — shawls, blankets, 
valises, an alpenstock, and luncheon-basket — in the 
racks and upon the floor, and took the seat facing 
us. The man was powerfully built and had a full 
reddish beard. His wife was a nice appearing lady, 
and well educated. Both spoke German fluently 
and entered into conversation with us. They were 
astonished when they learned that we were from 
America, and seemed to think it queer that two girls 
should go so far to study. To leave Russia they 
had to obtain permission from the authorities, and 
if they remained a day longer than the stipulated 
time, would be heavily fined. 

Later in the day, a fussy old lady with numerous 
bundles, bustled into our compartment. As we were 
already somewhat crowded, we told her there was 
no room to spare, and the porter gathered up her 
baggage and tried to find another place for her, but 
was unsuccessful and soon returned saying that we 
would have to take the old lady in as it was the best 
he could do. She was by this time quite excited 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 33 

and angry, and gave us a sound scolding, but when 
the storm had passed proved to be an agreeable com- 
panion. 

The ride through central Germany was interesting, 
and we had, through our car windows, many glimpses 
of beautiful mountain scenery and of German peasant 
life. It was the second week in September, and the 
meadows were again being mowed. The grass was 
not more than an inch or two in length, but it was 
carefully raked together, cocked, and conveyed to the 
barn. The men in the fields were outnumbered by 
the women, who wore slippers, short gowns, loose 
sacques, and small shawls tied over their heads. But 
few horses were to be seen, the grass being either 
carted away by dogs, or carried by women in baskets 
on their backs. One place a boy was watching a 
flock of geese, and in other places there were shep- 
herds and their flocks. Shepherds, cowherds, and 
gooseherds are a positive necessity, for there are no 
fences. There is not nearly so much pasturing as in 
America, the stock being penned in yards and fed; 
nor does one see farm-houses scattered over the 
country, for they are all built together in villages. 

The train sped on through fertile valleys, past 
villages, cities, and wooded mountains, with here and 
there a ruinous castle, about which the swallows flut- 
tered in great numbers. Towards evening we came 
to Eisenach, a short distance beyond which we saw 
3 



34 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

the Wartburg where Luther translated the Bible, and 
at 6:30 p. m. we had reached Leipsic, our final desti- 
nation. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 35 



CHAPTER VI. 

LEIPSIC — EXPERIENCES AND SIGHTS OF THE FIRST 
TWO WEEKS. 

ON alighting at the depot at Leipsic, we took a 
a "droschke" (cab) for Hotel de Prusse, where 
we proposed to stay, until we could find a suitable 
private boarding place. After a ride of perhaps fif- 
teen minutes, our carriage stopped before a five-story 
building with mansard roof The porter came out, 
assisted us in alighting and took care of our baggage, 
while we were shown to a nice large room facing 
upon Rossplatz, and the Promenade — a circular walk 
taking the place of the old city wall. The continu- 
ous rumble of the vehicles over the stone-paved 
streets below was borne up to our ears, and I went to 
the window for a minute to gaze upon the busy scene, 
and wondered how much a year's residence abroad 
would do for us. Then, letting the lace curtains fall 
back to their places, I sank upon the plush-covered 
sofa, and looked about the room. The floor was of 
hard wood, strown with rugs, and there were two 
single beds standing side by side, a small table with 
wax candle and matches beside each, a wash-stand 



36 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

with two bowls and pitchers, upholstered chairs, and 
electric lights. At one side was what I at first 
thought to be a mantel-piece, but which proved to 
be a white porcelain stove. It was some three feet 
long, two feet broad, and seven or eight feet high. 
Presently there was a knock at the door, and a serv- 
ant with the register entered. We were requested 
to write our names, place of residence, and occupa- 
tion, which being done we were again left to our- 
selves. 

After a dainty luncheon, we prepared to retire, for 
we were quite weary after our long journey. A maid 
with white cap and apron arranged the beds for us, 
and poured water out into the bowls for our next 
morning ablution. The sleeping arrangements 
pleased us, for each could retire, rise, and make her 
toilet without disturbing the other. 

On the morning of our first day at Leipsic, we 
started out to pay a visit to the American consul. 
We crossed Rossplatz, usually beautiful with its 
flowers, shrubs, linden, and hawthorne trees, but now 
gray and sere from the excessive heat and want of 
rain, and entered the inner or old town, which is a 
thousand years old. We wandered about the narrow, 
crooked streets, but the consul's office we failed to 
find. We then addressed one of the numerous police- 
men, and from his lengthy directions gained some 
idea of the location of the office, which had been re- 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 37 

moved from the street to which we had been directed. 
After a little more searching and inquiring we found 
the place, and were received by the consul's secretary, 
a short, black-bearded man, who surveyed us with 
evident interest, and answered all questions, which 
were not quite clear to his own mind, with a shrug of 
his shoulders. We were then admitted to the consul, 
a kind, friendly man from Pittsburg, Pa. In regard 
to engaging lodging he advised us to have an under- 
standing with the landlady, that, if atthe end ofa certain 
number of weeks all did not prove satisfactory, we 
should be free to go elsewhere. The German law re- 
quires that notice of leave be given one month in ad- 
vance, so that in order to get away at the end of a 
month one must give notice at the beginning, other- 
wise he will be booked for two. This arrangement, to 
say the least, has caused many Americans much in- 
convenience. Provided with a number of addresses, 
we now set out to seek a "pension" (boarding place). 
As it was difficult for us to find places in this large 
foreign city, we called a "droschke," and told the 
"kutscher" (cab-man) — a corpulent fellow, wearing 
a high black oilcloth hat, and dark blue suit orna- 
mented with brass buttons — where we wished to go. 
We finally decided to take up our abode on Peters- 
steinweg, and acting upon the consul's advice made 
arrangements to stay but two weeks. And fortunate 
it was that we were so cautious ! Our room was 



38 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

large, pleasantly located, nicely furnished, and neat 
looking. The landlady, too, was a handsome and 
well-dressed woman, but there were many things that 
did not suit us. 

During the first days of our stay at the "pension," 
we had some amusing experiences. My friend and 
I had seated ourselves at the dinner table when 
the male boarders came in. There were seven 
or eight of them — business men and conservatory 
students — and before we realized what was being 
done, they all, one after another, were standing be- 
fore us, making profound bows and saying some- 
thing which we did not understand. We were quite 
overcome by so much attention, and not knowing 
what else to do bowed and remained silent. We after- 
wards learned that they had introduced themselves, 
which in Germany is the proper thing for a gentle- 
man to do when thrown into ladies' society, if there 
be no one to present him. The lady in turn is ex- 
pected to express her pleasure and mention her 
name. 

One day a friend from America called to see us, 
and while awaiting our coming was ushered into the 
parlor, where the landlady sat at one end of the room 
writing. The gentleman, not having met her, and 
not knowing the German custom, did not speak to 
her, at which she was greatly offended. After his 
departure she came to me and said, "Miss M., 1 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 39 

think your friend is not at all polite, he never intro- 
duced himself, or even spoke to me." I informed 
her that it was not customary to do so in America, 
and that the gentleman was ignorant of their way, 
at which her anger was somewhat mollified. It 
seemed odd to us, too, when on the streets, to see 
the gentlemen bow first to the ladies. The bows — 
even those exchanged between men — are quite pro- 
found. 

Upon sitting down to and rising from dinner, 
every one says "mahlzeit" (meal-time) or "gesegnete 
mahlzeit" (blessed meal-time). This meal, usually 
at 1 130 p. m., is good and substantial, but one gets 
no bread or butter without specially ordering them. 
At our first boarding-place, instead of having coffee 
at 4 p. m. — the usual time — it was served imme- 
diately after dinner, at a side-table, where the men 
also smoked. The milk used in the coffee is always 
heated, which I think is a good idea, especially if 
one uses much. Supper is eaten about 7:30, and 
breakfast at almost any of the morning hours. 
Breakfast consists of nothing but coffee and rolls, 
with something more substantial later on. We did 
not like this arrangement, so had the meat or eggs 
with our rolls and coffee. 

From our windows, which faced the street, we saw 
many novel sights. Early in the morning, the musical 
chime of two small bells announced the approach 



40 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

of the kindling-wagon. Like most other German 
wagons, it had high, sloping sides, somewhat resem- 
bling an old-fashioned hay-rack. Then there were 
the coal-wagons, going from door to door, to supply 
the wants of those who buy only a basketful or two, 
at a time. Here was a white-aproned butcher, pull- 
ing his cart; there, a milk-cart, drawn by dogs; here, 
a baker with snowy cap and apron, carrying upon 
his head a boardful of hot cakes; there, a bareheaded 
servant girl, returning from market with her mistress' 
purchases; here and there, a little boy or girl, hurry- 
ing home with a shining loaf of rye-bread — which 
the baker never takes the trouble to wrap up; school- 
children were trudging along like little soldiers, with 
their books strapped on their backs — the boys wear- 
ing different colored caps, signifying to what schools 
they belong; women, bending under the weight of 
heavy baskets on their backs; men, hauling loads of 
beer casks, bottles, furniture, and even coffins; and 
dogs, pulling loads of plums, small apples, and other 
things too numerous to mention. Often one sees a 
woman and a dog drawing the same cart, and some- 
times the husband walks at the side contentedly 
smoking. The draught horses, of which there are 
comparatively few, are large, well-fed animals with 
broad harness and high collars. They are chiefly 
used to draw loads too heavy for men, such as large 
covered drays, resembling box-cars, in which furni- 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 41 

ture is packed and shipped, and "eisenbahnwagen" 
filled with imported fruits and vegetables. 

The most fashionable stores are on two of the 
oldest streets in the inner town — Peters and Grim- 
maischestrassen — which are narrow and crooked, but 
most interesting. They have clean asphalt pave- 
ments, which, on evenings or special occasions, are so 
crowded that a carriage can scarcely make its way 
through. The shop-windows are beautiful and ever 
new, as the same display is not allowed to remain 
more than a few days. One need not hesitate to 
stop and look at the beautiful and curious things, as 
that is what everybody does. 

Just at the entrance of Petersstrasse is the largest 
dry-goods house in the city, where there is always 
some new and attractive arrangement of goods and 
garments of all kinds, which do not differ materially 
from those in American stores except in price; 
woolen goods being cheaper, and cotton dearer. We 
next come to a large shoe-house, where a variety of 
heavy, thick-soled, and extremely pointed foot-wear 
is shown. One kind, with broader toes, is made 
especially for " foreigners." 

A window in which delicacies for the table are 
tastily arranged now attracts our attention. There 
are fresh lobsters, oysters at seventy-five cents a 
dozen, pickled tongues and cows' udder, smoked 
meats, a great variety of sausages, pressed goose- 



42 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

livers, cheese of all kinds, asparagus a foot long and 
bleached white, celery bulbs — to be sliced and used 
in salads — large Italian chestnuts, grapes, oranges, 
lemons, and a few small green bananas, which are 
sold at an enormous price, and, indeed, it is difficult 
to get them at all. 

I shall not enumerate the many delicate and ex- 
quisitely wrought things, and the sparkling gems, 
at the jeweler's — you can see them in any large city 
store — but simply call attention to the fact that gar- 
nets and opera-glasses sell at very low prices. Here, 
however, is a florist's window that I cannot pass. 
Those beautiful blushing roses, the spicy carnations, 
the velvety pansies, the sweet lilies-of-the-valley, the 
dainty forget-me-nots, and all the other beauties — 
how I do love them, and how they tempt me to buy! 
And that window there! What American girl could 
pass by without casting longing glances toward it? 
Chocolate in every form, shape, and size, filled or 
solid, as you desire, is there. Think how happy the 
German maiden must be when she receives some of 
those large chocolate bricks on her birthday or at 
Xmas, as she often does! And those cakes, are they 
not queer? See the different colored icings between 
the layers, and the red and yellow flowers, and green 
leaves, made of candied fruits, on the top; and the 
poppy and caraway-seed and "smear-case" cakes. 
But come with me now to the china-store. Is not 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 43 

that Dresden china elegant? And does it not make 
you wish for a "fat pocket-book?" There is such a 
variety, too, among the beautifully designed and 
artistically decorated dishes, vases, clocks, and stat- 
uettes. 

A few steps farther and we are at a linen-store, 
admiring the pink clover, the blue violets, and other 
flowers, which deft fingers have wrought upon the 
table-cloths, doilies, and napkins. Just imagine hav- 
ing that linen, and those Dresden china dishes for our 
tables! But there is no time for meditation, it is 
growing late, and we must hurry on. Now we hear 
martial music, and soon a detachment of soldiers, 
headed by a band and mounted officers, is marching 
past. The Saxon soldiers are small, yet present a 
warlike appearance in their red-trimmed, dark blue 
uniforms and polished steel helmets. At first one 
wonders what all this parading signifies, but soon 
becomes accustomed to it, as it is of almost daily 
occurrence, and is for the purpose of drilling the 
soldiers. 

Let us take a few hasty glances at those of the 
passing crowd, whom we have not yet noticed ; happy 
and contented-looking married people all walking 
arm-in-arm ; red, blue, green, and white capped uni- 
versity students — some of whose faces are embellished 
with scars, court-plaster, and bandages — swinging 
their canes and walking along with important air; 



44 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

flower venders holding out their baskets to the 
passersby; chamois-skin pedlers calling attention to 
the bundles of soft yellow skins hanging about their 
necks; and fine-looking policemen in black uniforms 
with steel buttons, white gloves, and black helmets 
surmounted by steel spikes. 

The first Saturday morning that we were in Leip- 
sic, we heard an almost continuous rumbling as early 
as 3 o'clock. Curious to know the cause I arose and 
looked out of the window, and there hurrying past 
to market were hundreds of people, some in white- 
covered wagons, some driving dogs, some pulling 
carts, and many women carrying large baskets on 
their backs. The wagons were drawn up on the square 
near Market Hall, and the dogs with their carts were 
left at the edge of the pavement about the building. 
Sometimes the poor animals have to wait there all 
day, but they are usually quite well cared for, being 
blanketed in winter and given a mat or board to lie 
upon. When in the evening the first ones, barking 
for joy, set out for home, all others join in and make 
that quarter ring with their glad demonstrations. 

To visit Market Hall is as good as to attend a fair. 
There are scores of large fat geese, hares, pigeons, a 
few wild boars, and sometimes reindeer and bears, 
besides all kinds of cut meat from the best beef- 
steak to horse flesh. Near these stalls are flowers, 
fruit, and vegetables in endless variety. Farther on 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 45 

is the fish department, where are all kinds of dried, 
salt, and fresh fish, and in a tank, live fish and eels. 
The butter and cheese are found up-stairs, but unless 
you can endure a great deal, I would advise you not 
to go the whole length of this department. The 
butter is sweet and good, but the combination of 
odors from the different kinds of cheese is over- 
powering, and fills one with wonder at people's tastes. 
When I, at last, came to a place of exit, I did not 
stop to look at the other departments, where there 
is a full line of household articles and dry-goods, 
but hurried out to get a breath of fresh air. 

Sunday morning we went to Thomaskirche. At 
9 o'clock — the hour for service — the spacious audience- 
room and galleries were crowded to the fullest extent. 
Besides the regular worshipers, there were many 
who were attracted by the entrancing music rendered 
by the organ, orchestra, and choir which is composed 
of boys from the Thomasschule. One little fellow — 
perhaps thirteen — I especially remember forthe sweet- 
ness of his voice, and the nicety with which he ren- 
dered the most difficult solo parts. John Sebastian 
Bach, to whose memory a small monument is erected 
near the church, was formerly chorister here, and the 
music still is said to rank with the best in the world. 

The slowly sung hymns with their grand amens, 
and the intonation were novel and interesting to us. 
During the latter service, the minister, attired in 



46 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

gown and ruff, stood facing the handsomely carved 
oak altar, which is overlaid with gold, and then 
mounted the small winding stair-way to the richly 
canopied pulpit, built at the side of one of the mass- 
ive columns supporting the roof. The sermon was 
good and preached entirely without notes. After the 
benediction, the large congregation passed out at 
the different entrances, dropping the alms into copper 
receptacles placed at the doors. Outside, the soldiers, 
who had been in attendance at the services, were 
forming in line to march back to headquarters. There 
are too many of them in the city to attend one 
church, so detachments are marched to various places 
of worship. Special communion services are often 
held for them, and one Sunday, as I came out of 
Thomaskirche, companies were marching up from all 
sides. Ere long, more than a thousand soldiers were 
drawn up in line before the church, and after being 
reviewed by distinguished officers, and a general — 
conspicuous by his crest of waving white plumes — 
went into the church to commune. 

The Evangelical Lutheran is the established church 
in Germany, and many fine ancient and modern 
structures belong to this denomination. There are 
also a Catholic, a German Reformed, an Episcopal, 
and a Greek church, and a Jewish synagogue. The 
Americans meet for worship every Sunday evening, 
at 5 o'clock, in one of the school buildings. Almost 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 47 

every denomination is represented, and all highly 
esteem the pastor, Mr, Edwards, who, by his kind 
fatherly manner, and good practical sermons, appeals 
to the best that is in one. 

We had not been in Leipsic many days, until 
Wagner's "Flying Dutchman" was given. Miss M., 
being a musician, was quite anxious to hear the 
opera, and I, nothing loth, accompanied her. We 
started for the theater at 6:15 p. m., as most per- 
formances begin at 6:30. A short walk brought us 
in sight of the theater, a large stone building 
adorned with statues, and erected at a cost of $525,- 
000. We had soon crossed the square, entered the 
building, laid aside our wraps — this time without 
any persuasion — procured programs, and found our 
seats. The interior is large and roomy, with five 
ranks of seats; the ceiling is adorned with beautiful 
paintings, and the curtain and other decorations are 
fine. It pleased me to see so many old people pres- 
ent, enjoying the music and acting, and having their 
little social chats between acts, while the younger 
people went into the "foyer" (promenade-hall). To 
walk back and forth in the " foyer," between the mar- 
ble busts, and under the blazing chandeliers, is a 
pleasure. Here one sees the people from the other 
parts of the house, meets his friends, and passes 
actors and actresses in the throng. 

The orchestral music, the singing, acting, and 



48 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

stage settings all combined to make the " Flying 
Dutchman" a success, and although far removed 
from those former scenes, the wild, weird music, and 
the vivid scenes are with me still. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 49 



CHAPTER VII. 

PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. 

AT the end of two weeks, we moved to another 
"pension" where we hoped to be better con- 
tented. The first evening — I think it was — a young 
doctor, a cousin of the hostess, dined with the 
family. During the course of the meal, I wished to 
have some more butter, and as the servants were not 
present, asked the doctor, who sat opposite, if he 
would be so kind as to pass me the butter. Imagine 
my surprise when he took the dish, arose, walked 
around the table to my chair, and handed it to me 
with a very polite bow. 

From our new quarters we had a charming view. 
Below us were about two dozen small private gar- 
dens, with clean gravelled walks, flower-beds, sum- 
mer-houses, and shade trees, where on pleasant after- 
noons families took their coffee. At some distance 
we could see the fountain in Johanna Park, sporting 
above the tree-tops, and the perspective was closed 
by a forest of chimneys, which, although not beauti- 
ful, were always attractive to me; for they brought 
me a sense of companionship in that distant land, 
4 



50 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

and spoke of hundreds of hearts that were beating 
as warm as ours. 

Not far from our dwelling stood Pleissenburg, an 
old fort, a relic of by-gone days, now used as bar- 
racks. In the yard, which was formerly the moat, 
soldiers are drilled daily. Passing through the old 
gate-way, we find ourselves in the inner court, where 
some cannon taken from the French are kept, and as 
we look about we are astonished at the immense size 
of the building. Ah! those massive walls and 
ancient towers, what experiences have been theirs! 
Here Luther, and the Romish theologian, Eck, had 
their well-known dispute. Here waged a bloody 
contest in the Thirty Years' War, when the fort was 
badly injured. Here died General Pappenheim, who 
had been wounded in a hundred different places; and 
from the large tower could have been witnessed the 
flight of the great Napoleon and his army, in 1813. 

Excursions into the country, in Germany, are ren- 
dered a delight by the excellent roads, which are 
kept in repair by the Government. They are graded, 
given a foundation of crushed stone, and bordered 
with trees — mostly plum and cherry — which not only 
furnish shade, but the fruit of which is sold to supply 
part of the necessary funds. 

One pleasant autumn day, a small part}' of us took 
the street-cars on Hospitalstrasse, and rode to the 
end of the line. A short walk out one of the country 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 5 I 

roads brought us to Napoleonstein, a small monu- 
ment, marking the place from which Napoleon 
viewed the battle of Leipsic, in 1813. The spot is 
overgrown with ivy and surrounded by an iron fence, 
and the neat monument in the center has upon its 
top casts of Napoleon's hat and sword. The inscrip- 
tion is to the effect that God alone rules over all. From 
the gentle rise in the land here, Napoleon could see 
for miles, and as he realized that victory was not to 
be his, what must have been his feelings! Not only 
were the French defeated, but obliged to flee for 
their lives. In their flight through the city, Napo- 
leon ordered that the bridge by which they crossed 
the Elster river should be destroyed when all had 
crossed. A mine was laid, but in the hurry and ex- 
citement it was fired too soon, and many of the 
French were blown to atoms, and many others left 
behind, among them the brave Pole, Poniatowski, 
who, in his attempt to cross the river, was drowned. 
Another of our excursions was to Gohlis, a suburb 
of Leipsic, where is the house in which Schiller lived 
in 1785, and wrote the poem "An die Freude" (To 
Joy). A small oddly shaped house it is, plastered on 
the outside, and having a red tiled roof. Going to 
the door, we rang the bell, but no one came; the 
house was deserted. We were about to go away dis- 
appointed, when we thought of ringing at the next 
house. A rather pretty German girl came to the 



52 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

door, and upon our inquiring for a guide, said she 
would get us one. Another girl soon came with the 
key, and we entered the queer old house, whose 
chief attraction is the front room up-stairs, where the 
poet lived and worked. Mounting the narrow, dark 
stairs, we came to a small room with bare floor and 
raftered ceiling, and walls hung with framed pictures 
and letters of the poet. Above the windows still 
hang the old, red cotton lambrequins, now faded and 
torn. A white satin vest carefully folded is kept in 
a large frame, and a plaster mask in a glass case shows 
us the poet's features. The other furnishings are a 
table and some high straight-backed chairs. The ad- 
joining bed-room is devoid of everything except the 
bare necessities, and those are of the plainest kind. 
Amid such surroundings was it that the beautiful 
poem — now set to music and become one of the 
popular songs — was written. 

When walking about a German city, I always en- 
joyed going through the many queer passages: the 
arched gate-ways; the thronged arcades, with their 
lofty glass roofs and showy shop-windows; the long, 
low, and dimly lighted passages leading through a 
whole block, and thus saving one the trouble of 
walking about the square; and the short passage 
leading through a building to an inner square and 
thence to another street. One Sunday on our way 
to Nikolaikirche we explored some of these ways 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 53 

and came into the court upon which faces the house, 
where Goethe lived in 1765, while attending the 
university, and about which he writes in " Wahrheit 
und Dichtung." He says that he liked those old 
courts at Leipsic, and took up his abode at this one — 
called the "Feuerkugel" — between the old and the new 
market. He had a couple of nice rooms facing upon 
the court, which was always lively on account of the 
passage-way. The man who had a room next to his 
was a theologian, well educated, but poor, and suffer- 
ing greatly with his eyes, which he had strained by 
reading in the late twilight and even in the moon- 
light, in order to save a little oil. The landlady, 
too, he speaks of, saying that she was friendly and 
considerate. 

As we walked around Nikolaikirche to the en- 
trance we noticed on one of the walls a horseshoe, 
about which a number of stories are told. One is 
that Knight George fought and killed a dragon in 
the vicinity, and his horse, while bearing him rapidly 
past the church, lost one of its shoes, which was 
afterwards fastened to the wall in memory of the 
knight's brave deed. The most probable explana- 
tion, however, is that the shoe marks the burial place 
of a blacksmith, who bequeathed all of his money to 
the church. 

Nikolaikirche is quite large and imposing. It was 
the first church built at Leipsic, but has been en- 



54 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

larged and remodeled at different times. It still 
has the pulpit from which Luther preached at Whit- 
suntide, in 1539, and also has the honor of being the 
place where the thanksgiving services were held after 
the battle of Leipsic, it alone remaining uninjured. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 55 



CHAPTER VIII. 

THE UNIVERSITY. 



PERHAPS some of you, my dear readers, may 
some day wish to attend Leipsic University, so 
I shall tell you where the oldest and chief buildings 
are to be found. The Augusteum, a large gray build- 
ing, fronts on Augustusplatz. The Mauricianum 
faces on Grimmaischestrasse, and the Bornerianum 
is just back of Universitaetsstrasse. One of the 
middle buildings was formerly occupied by the 
Dominican monks, but the last remnant, an arched 
passage, whose walls were covered with paintings 
from the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, was 
pulled down in the fall of '92, for the purpose of 
making room for a new building. The Convict 
Building, where transgressing students were brought 
to their senses by imprisonment and a diet of bread 
and water, was torn down at the same time. The 
transgressors had almost covered the walls of the 
cells with writing, drawings, and poetry, in which 
they called bread "convict's ham." The university 
church, called Paulinerkirche, stands near the other 
buildings. It is over six hundred years old, and was 
formerly used by the Dominicans, but was dedicated 



56 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

to the use of the Protestants, by Martin Luther, in 
i 545. It has some interesting old pictures and relics 
of former times, and before the altar is the grave- 
stone of Tetzel, the seller of "indulgences." 

The University of Leipsic, almost five hundred 
years old, has students from many parts of the world. 
The number in attendance varies from 3,000 to 4,000. 
Women are not allowed to matriculate, but are tol- 
erated in a few lectures on history and literature. 
Wishing to enter some department, if possible, I 
bought a catalogue, obtained the addresses of some 
of the eminent professors, and in company with Frau 
von S., started out to see what could be accom- 
plished. The first place at which we called, we were 
conducted by the maid to the professor's apartments, 
and ushered into a room where two handsome young 
men, the professor and a friend, had just finished 
their afternoon coffee, and were having a smoke. 
The cups, saucers, coffee-urn, and rolls were still on 
the table, and the professor excused himself repeat- 
edly for appearing in his smoking-jacket, and for be- 
ing obliged to receive us in a room scented with 
tobacco smoke. His friend immediately departed, 
and we, after introducing ourselves, proceeded to 
make known the purpose of our visit. The pro- 
fessor, who was to lecture on "Lessing's Life and 
Works," said that women had attended his lectures 
the previous year, but there had been much trouble 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 57 

about it, and he was threatened with loss of position, 
if he did not exclude them. He further said he was 
sorry that affairs stood thus, and hoped they would 
change, but at present he could not say whether or 
no the desired permission could be given; we should, 
however, know in a week or two. 

The second and third calls were fruitless, as no one 
was at home, but the fourth was successful, as far as 
finding people at home was concerned. We were en- 
tertained in the drawing-room by the wife of the pro- 
fessor until that worthy individual — a large, portly- 
man, and an historian of note — made his appearance. 
In reply to our inquiries, he said he could not admit 
women to his lectures, but would be happy to teach 
them privately — for 15 marks ($3-75) an hour, as I 
afterwards heard. Thus ended my first attempt to 
enter a German university. Nothing daunted, how- 
ever, I started out again a few days later, and met 
with better success. There is nothing like perse- 
verance, you know. This time I had interviews with 
both professors who had been away when I called 
before, and both were very kind, and said they would 
be happy to grant my request. Professor L., a man 
of great learning and ability, was to lecture four 
times a week on "German European History in the 
Nineteenth Century," and Dr. W., a "privatdocent," 
(private tutor) was to give six lectures weekly: two 
on "Goethe's Dramas," were to be public; and four 



58 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

on the " History of German Literature from the 
Reformation to Klopstock," were to be private. 

Professors in Germany, as a rule, are not so well 
paid as those in America, nor is such a position 
easily obtained. After a student has been graduated 
from the university, if he wish to become a professor, 
he must first serve as "privatdocent." During this 
period he gives both public and private lectures. 
The public lectures are free to any university student 
who cares to attend, but those designated as private 
can only be entered after paying a term fee of seven- 
teen marks and fifty pfennige ($4,375). Of tms sum 
the "privatdocent" gets sixteen marks ($4), and the 
"famulus," (amanuensis) the remainder. The money 
thus obtained is all that the "privatdocent" receives, 
so that his salary depends upon the number of pri- 
vate pupils, and is usually quite small. If his work 
prove satisfactory, the tutor will in the course of a 
number of years be elected a professor, and not until 
then has he a right to the title, be he ever so learned, 
or have he ever so much experience. Would it not 
be better, if Americans were more particular in this 
respect? Here every teacher of a graded school, 
every instructor of singing, dancing, etc., is called 
professor. The result is that when any one has fairly 
earned the title, it amounts to but little. 

Although it is so difficult for women to gain ad- 
mittance to any of the higher institutions of learn- 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 59 

ing in Germany, it is easy for her to obtain a degree 
or any of the professional titles. All she has to 
do is to marry the right man and all is accomplished, 
for wives have the same titles as their husbands. If 
she wish the doctor's degree, she must marry a uni- 
versity graduate, and she will be Frau Doctor; if to 
be addressed as professor be her desire, let her select 
a husband from this class, and she will be Frau Pro- 
fessor, and so on through the whole Hst. She can 
even aspire to military honors, and obtain the titles 
Frau Lieutenant, Frau Major, etc. 

The school-year in Germany ends at Easter, and 
begins usually in April. The university has two 
terms, the first beginning about the middle of April, 
and continuing until the middle of August, the 
second, lasting from the middle of October until 
Easter. 

In order to ascertain when certain lectures would 
begin, and where they would be held, I had several 
times to consult the bulletin-boards, in the center 
of the court upon which one of the university build- 
ings faces. The first time there were but few students 
about, but the second time a crowd surrounded the 
boards, nor would the German students step aside to 
let me see. They evidently thought that women 
had no business there, for elsewhere they are exceed- 
ingly polite. Wherever there were French, English, 
or American students, I had no trouble, for they at 



60 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

once made way for me, but the Germans would not 
move, so I had to look over their shoulders. Now 
you are shocked, kind reader, I know you are, but 
there was no other way out of the dilemma, and I 
was not going to be defeated at the start. As I was 
thus endeavoring to read one of the notices, a stu- 
dent turned about and stared insolently at me, but 
by paying not the slightest attention to him, and 
persevering in my attempts to read the bulletin, he 
was completely repulsed. 

Finally the opening day arrived, and with inward 
fear and trembling I crossed the court, entered the 
building, and traversed the halls, expecting at every 
turn to meet a frowning janitor, who would order me 
out. But no such monster appeared, and after 
climbing two flights of stairs, I found the lecture 
room. It was still empty, but soon after, to my 
great delight, two American girls entered. The 
students now began to come, Germans, French, 
English, and Americans, and among them some 
more women, at which we, who had preceded them, 
felt greatly encouraged. When the "famulus" — 
who is always one of the students — came in, he ad- 
justed the lecturer's desk, and then seated himself at 
the end of the first row of students. Shortly after, 
Dr. W. entered, mounted the platform, placed his 
manuscript on the pulpit-like desk before him, 
and began his lecture, which proved to be interesting 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 6 1 

and instructive. The majority of the students, with 
pen and ink, busily wrote the whole lecture into their 
note books, which they carry about in black oil- 
cloth portfolios. It was 10 o'clock a. m. when we 
left the room at the close of the lecture. Hundreds 
of men were coming, going, and passing from one 
room to another, and many were eating buttered 
rolls, which looked so comical to us that we could 
scarcely keep from smiling. 

At 5 p. m. we went to hear Professor L. His 
room was in the fourth story, and was furnished 
like the others with extremely uncomfortable, long, 
narrow benches, in front of which were equally long, 
narrow desks. Both extended the entire width of the 
room, allowing only space along the entrance side for 
an aisle. To reach the end of one of those benches 
requires time and patience, the space between them 
being too narrow to admit of walking, so that one 
has to slide along the best he can. This is too much 
trouble for the students, who reach their places in 
short order by walking over the tops of the desks. 
Each student usually has his own particular place, 
which he reserves by pasting upon the desk a slip of 
paper, giving his name, the subject and hour of the 
lecture, and the professor's name. Our presence was 
never in any way acknowledged by either students or 
professors. The former smoked, if they chose, and 
never thought of offering a lady a seat, if the room 



62 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

was crowded; the latter prefaced all their remarks 
with "Gentlemen," and addressed everything to their 
sex, only occasionally stealing a glance at the femi- 
nine portion of the audience. 

One pleasant morning a number of weeks after the 
opening of the university, the installation of the rec- 
tor occurred. The number of students was too 
large to permit of all attending the exercises, so each 
"verein" (society) sent four delegates, who rode to 
the Hall in carriages drawn by two and four horses. 
And a fine display they made as they rode along! 
The drivers and footmen were arrayed in elegant 
liveries, and the occupants of each carriage wore the 
distinctive colors and caps of their " verein." The 
colors, tied diagonally across the breast, shone out 
from under gold and silver embroidered coats, and 
the many colored caps of as many different styles — 
some velvet embroidered, others adorned with wav- 
ing plumes — sat jauntily on the head, while above 
each carriage floated a rich silk banner, which one of 
the students held in his white gloved hands. Thou- 
sands of people were out to see this fine parade, and 
the square about the Hall was so crowded that it was 
difficult to make one's way through. The young 
doctor, of whom I spoke before, acted as guide for 
our party, and as it was a holiday, asked us to go 
boating in the afternoon. 

Our party, consisting of four girls and two boys, 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 63 

set out soon after dinner. We first went to the uni- 
versity meadow at the edge of the city, where the 
students were playing foot-ball in the presence of 
many spectators. While we were watching the 
game, the doctor left us for a short time, but returned 
shortly with two students, whom he introduced, and 
who joined our party. The boat was not far away, 
and we were soon rowing up the Pleisse, which is 
quite narrow here. One of the girls undertook to 
steer the boat, but was not very successful as she re- 
peatedly ran it against the bushy bank, to the great 
amusement of the people who were on their way to 
the park beyond. After a time we made better prog- 
ress, and soon reached the woods through which 
the river runs. Many other boats were moving 
placidly along on the dark, cool bosom of the river, 
which reflected the overarching trees, and the blue 
sky above, and the beautiful grove itself showed 
young and old in the full enjoyment of the pleasant 
autumn day. Nurse-girls were trundling baby carts 
about, while the older children played in the sand 
provided for that purpose. Men and women with 
snowy hair, bright-eyed maidens, soldiers in uniform, 
students, and foreigners were sauntering up and 
down the shady lanes, while here and there on the 
benches lovers sat apart from the crowd, and farther 
back comfortable carriages rolled along the avenues. 
The time to return came all too soon. Two of 



64 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

the girls were invited out to coffee, so that we had 
to be back by a certain time, and reversing our boat 
we rowed under bridges, past restaurants, bath- 
houses, and willowed banks, and soon reached the 
boat-house. Our German escorts walked home with 
us, where they left us at the door with many adieux, 
and much lifting of hats. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 65 



CHAPTER IX. 

CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR. 

TO spend the winter holidays in a German city is 
a great pleasure on account of the extensive 
preparations made on all sides. Such beautiful rich 
displays are seen in the shop-windows that they 
seem to be the work of fairy fingers, and but to ap- 
proach them is to be enchanted. A week before 
Christmas, begins the " Weihnachtsmesse," (Xmas- 
fair) held in Leipsic on the old market-place. Here 
hundreds of booths, containing all kinds of toys, 
attract the eye, but the most novel sight is on 
Augustusplatz. Here, where a few days before was 
an open square, now stands a fir forest. Winding 
paths lead through it, and here and there are rude 
huts. "How came this about? Have the fairies 
been at work here, too, and with a swing of the 
magic wand raised this sweet-smelling wood?" Thus 
might one think, had he not seen how the trans- 
formation was made. How it came about, I shall 
tell you. 

One morning, when on my way to the university, 
I came to Augustusplatz, many wagons were stand- 
5 



66 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

ing about with towering loads of Xmas-trees of all 
sizes, bound with straw so that they would pack 
more easily. On the square, officials were measuring 
off ground for the venders, who were busy unload- 
ing, unwrapping, and setting up the trees, each of 
which was inserted into a block about one foot 
square, so that it would stand wherever placed. 
Thus in a short time a forest was raised in the heart 
of the city, and as one wandered about it, the trees 
sent out their sweet odors and whispered of their 
native hills. But the huts? you say. Oh! they 
were put up by the venders, who camped out there 
until after Christmas. 

A whole week before Christmas, a pleasurable ex- 
citement was abroad in our "pension." There were 
secret consultations and expeditions, and mysterious 
looking packages were carried about. In the kitchen, 
macaroons and "stolle"were being made — the latter, 
a Xmas-cake made of light sweetened dough, with 
English currants, raisins, and almonds mixed in, and 
baked in loaves. Here and there industrious workers 
were caught sight of, who, at the approach of un- 
known footsteps, suddenly ceased operations, and 
tried to look as unconcerned as possible. Xmas- 
trees, too, were being conveyed to almost every 
home — even the lowly hut must have its tree, be it 
nothing more than a fir branch — and the very atmos- 
phere was permeated with delicious odors, which, as 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 67 

they were wafted to one's nostrils, revived pleasant 
memories. 

A number of days before Christmas, a large tree 
was placed in the saloon, and one evening we all 
gathered there to trim it. Some furnished nuts with 
tooth-pick stems, while others covered them with 
gold and silver tinsel, and still others provided the 
various ornaments with string or wire. Then came 
the decorating, which was done amidst much jesting 
and merry laughter. Finally the work was finished, 
and our tree stood arrayed in its holiday attire. 

Christmas-eve there was an excellent supper, to 
which a number of friends were invited. Among the 
dishes prepared were carp with Polynesian and butter 
sauce, potatoes, salad, horse-radish, and punch. At 
the end of the repast a little silver bell called all into 
the saloon, where an extension-table laden with gifts 
stood before the brilliantly illuminated Xmas tree. 
The packages were all nicely arranged, and as 
soon as the owners found them, there were 
pleasant surprises, joyous exclamations, and hearty 
thanks. The German girls and women accompanied 
their expressions of gratitude with handshaking and 
kissing, and the servants stood at the door looking 
on with beaming countenances, for they also had 
been well remembered. Articles of many kinds were 
scattered about in profusion: a large rug, a serving 
table, aprons, dresses, a wrap, bonnet, artificial 



68 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

flowers for dress and hair, a cut glass beer mug, fancy 
articles, cards, pictures, Xmas-cakes, confectionery, 
nuts, fruit, and gold and silver pieces. The " Christ- 
kindchen," not satisfied with what he had placed on 
the table, left a pretty calendar and some German 
verses for my friend and me. 

After the presents had been inspected to every- 
body's satisfaction, we seated ourselves and passed 
the remainder of the evening in pleasant converse; 
and it must be confessed that when the hour for retir- 
ing came, the supply of candy, nuts, and fruit had 
grown visibly less, and the punch-bowl also was 
empty — though the Americans had nothing to do 
with that part of the program. 

Christmas-morn was clear and cold, but not a flake 
of snow was to be seen in the city and the roads were 
dry and dusty. At 8 o'clock the first church bells 
were ringing, and at 9 o'clock I was at Thomaskirche, 
which as usual was crowded. In front of the pulpit 
stood two Xmas-trees, on which numerous lights 
twinkled like so many stars, and soon there resounded 
among the lofty arches the combined tones of the 
grand organ, orchestra, and boy-choir, filling the 
whole church with melody so sweet, so grand, so 
sublime, that it seemed the heavenly host had sud- 
denly appeared singing, " Glory to God in the highest, 
and on earth peace, good-will toward men." Indeed 
I think it was the most soul-inspiring music that I 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 69 

have ever heard. The remaining part of the services 
was also good, and I returned to our "pension" in an 
exalted frame of mind, but the walk made me hungry, 
and when an hour or so later we sat down to dinner, 
I for the time thought more of material things than 
of spiritual. Such is the frailty of human nature! 

The next two days were also holidays, for in Ger- 
many there are usually three legal holidays, where 
we have but one. The second is almost as closely 
observed as the first, but the third is not of so much 
account. A number of us improved the time by 
making a trip to Berlin, about which I shall tell you 
later. 

Sylvesterabend (New Year's eve,) everybody does 
about as he pleases, and the policemen do not inter- 
fere. There is usually much drinking and carousing, 
so that it is wise for ladies to keep indoors. All the 
Xmas-trees are again illuminated, and almost every 
one sits up until midnight. At the first stroke of 
twelve all rush to the windows, throw them open, 
and shout "Prosit neujahr." 

New Year's morning I began by. wishing every one 
a " Happy New Year," but soon learned that it was 
not customary to do so there — at least verbally. The 
good wishes are sent through the mail by means of 
cards, and the mail-carriers have almost more than 
they can do for several days. 

When snow comes, it does not last long in the city, 



70 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

as men are immediately set to work to shovel it up, 
and cart it away. How odd it seemed to me to see 
the horses with sleigh-bells on, when they were 
hitched to carriages ! and yet that is the case, as soon 
as a little snow falls. Some say it is done to warn 
people of the approach of the conveyances, whose 
sound is deadened by the snow. But how you would 
laugh to see the sleigh-riders ! Up and down street 
they go, wrapped in their furs, and seated in the front 
part of the sleigh, while the driver sits on an elevated 
seat back of them, and holds the lines over their 
heads. 

No matter how much snow may have fallen, the 
walks in the large parks are always open, and one 
can go cycling or walking whenever he chooses. 
Skating, too, is indulged in by many. The band 
often plays a couple of hours, and then one can see 
hundreds of people of all sizes and ages, dressed in 
all manner of costumes, gliding swiftly over the 
mirrored surface. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 7 1 



CHAPTER X. 

A MEDLEY. 

WHEN my friend and I started out to do some 
shopping, we were quite surprised at the arrange- 
ment of things. Instead of making our purchases at 
one store, as we were accustomed to do, we were 
obliged to visit many. If one bought a dress, she 
procured the goods at one place, and the thread, but- 
tons, linings, and trimmings at a number of different 
stores. Indeed it was very inconvenient, for we did 
not know at first where the different articles were to 
be found. Gloves are to be bought at one store ; 
underclothing and stockings at another ; fans and 
parasols at another; furs at another, etc., etc. So it is 
with articles for the table. Coffee and sugar are sold 
at one place; canned goods at another; butter and 
eggs at another; fruit and vegetables at another; and 
so on ad infinitum. Elevators, too, are lacking in the 
majority of the buildings, so that it is climb, climb, 
everywhere. One becomes accustomed to it after a 
time, but at first it is extremely fatiguing. 

One evening the children of our hostess invited 
me to accompany them to a circus. It was held in 
one part of Crystal Palace, an immense building with 



72 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

numerous halls for entertainments. On entering the 
hall, I was struck with its vast size. It somewhat 
resembles the Coliseum, but is all under roof. In 
the center is a large ring, and surrounding it boxes, 
and rows of seats rising one above the other. Its 
capacity is 4,000. An immense chandelier depends 
from the center of the dome-shaped ceiling, which is 
ornamented with paintings of beautiful maidens and 
cherubs representing the twelve months of the year. 
There were two clowns whose business it was to 
entertain the spectators between the different parts 
of the program, but their jokes were heavy and dull. 
It was really amusing, though, to think that many 
considered them quite witty. There was some good 
riding and acting, but the fifty trained horses were 
most interesting. They ran into the ring and took 
their places as though they thought it fine fun. 
Three platforms of different sizes, one placed upon 
the other, stood in the center. Upon the highest 
stood the trainer; just below him were four coal-black 
horses; below these, six others; in the ring about 
them, many of different sizes and colors; and on the 
surrounding raised track, a number of beautiful 
ponies. All were in motion; those on the platforms 
going in different directions, and those in the ring 
cutting fancy figures, while the ponies cantered about 
them all. What was most wonderful, though, was 
the dancing. Three or four horses came in at dif- 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 73 

ferent times, and danced waltzes, polkas, and quick- 
steps. When they were applauded, they kneeled 
and bowed. 

There was also a clever bear that rode about the 
ring, standing on its hind feet, jumped through paper- 
covered hoops, and wrestled with a man. 

During the latter part of the performance, the ring 
was transformed into a lake bordered with water- 
lilies and different colored electric lights. Gaily 
attired knights and ladies rowed about, played on 
guitars and sang, and beautiful fairies flitted across a 
bridge. 

I have spoken of the view which we had from our 
windows, but there were other sights of which I have 
not yet told you. One day — quite a warm one, too — 
upon looking out I saw three chickens hanging out- 
side of a neighboring window, and frequently after 
that we noticed hares, geese, and sausages dangling 
about, and had many a hearty laugh about them. 
Often they hung out a week before they were used, 
and judging from their appearance at the end of that 
time, we thought we would not care to eat any of the 
meat. Our hostess fortunately did not let the game 
hang out longer than a day. 

Sundays and on special occasions we usually had 
a hare or goose roast. Long, narrow strips of bacon 
were drawn through the flesh of the hare, which was 
then placed in the oven, and basted with butter or 



74 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

cream. Prepared thus, they are excellent. Geese 
before being roasted were stuffed with chestnuts, or 
apples and potatoes. Fish were usually boiled with 
their heads on, and eaten with a flour dressing 
flavored with lemon and onions, or butter-sauce 
plain or mixed with mustard. Eels were served like 
fish, or were jellied. Pickled cow's udder was boiled 
and sliced cold, or fried. Among the other dishes 
prepared were potato-dumplings dressed with prunes 
and dried apples, ripe peas cooked until soft, and 
then put through a sieve and dressed with ham 
gravy. Of soups there were: chocolate; pumpkin 
flavored with orange; a sweetened flour soup con- 
taining raisins and English currants; beer, and wine 
soup, and many other kinds. 

During the winter there were receptions every 
Thursday evening at our "pension," to which we 
were at liberty to invite any of our friends. The 
majority of those who came could speak nothing but 
German, which was quite a boon to us who wished to 
learn the language. By way of entertainment we 
had games, vocal and instrumental music, recitations, 
pantomimes, and private theatricals, after which beer 
and cake, and — on our account — tea and pudding 
were served. One thing noticeable at a gathering of 
this kind is the stiff uprightness of those seated. The 
book of German etiquette states that no one must 
lean back in his chair in company, as only impolite 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 75 

people and Americans do that. The leave-taking is 
quite ceremonious. The gentlemen place themselves 
directly in front of each lady, and making a profound 
bow, say "Good night." If the parties are well ac- 
quainted there is much hand-shaking, and many ex- 
changes of good wishes. 

Coffees are much in vogue, and we spent some 
pleasant afternoons in attendance at them. The re- 
freshments are light, consisting of coffee, bread and 
butter, jelly, preserves, different kinds of cake, and 
wine. They begin at 4 or 4:30 o'clock and last two 
or three hours. 

A pleasant evening party to which I was invited 
was given by Dr. R. Among the sixteen guests 
present were representatives of Scotland, Ireland, 
Germany, and America. When all had arrived, and 
the men had paid their respects to the hostess — some 
kissing her hand — we were served with cake and tea, 
in the parlor. After some half hour spent in conver- 
sation, supper was announced and we were ushered 
into the dining-room, where a table laden with fruits, 
nuts, wine, and flowers greeted our eyes. Miss S., 
a girl from Connecticut, and I were delighted, be- 
cause at each of our plates were two bottles of min- 
eral water instead of wine — Dr. R. knew that we 
were W. C. T. U.'s. During the excellent repast that 
followed there was much drinking to each other's 
health, and when Frau Dr. R. gave a toast, all arose 



76 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

to their feet, clinked glasses and drank. Before the 
close of the banquet, Miss S., at the opposite end of 
the table, held up a glass of mineral water and said, 
"Miss M., 'prosit'," (here's to your health), to which 
I responded to the great amusement of our German 
friends. 

Upon arising from the table, some ten minutes 
were passed in shaking hands, first with the host and 
hostess, and then with everybody else, and saying 
"mahlzeit" to each one. Then the women retired to 
the parlor, leaving the men to finish their wine and 
have a smoke. 

The appearance of the men upon the scene later, 
was the signal for games to begin, and such a merry 
time did we have that it grew quite late ere we were 
aware of it. 

While we were at Frau von S.'s, one of her daugh- 
ters was confirmed, and we attended part of the ser- 
vices, which lasted about three hours. The church 
was prettily decorated with palms, evergreens, and 
flowers, and the scene was brightened by the presence 
of many officers in full uniform. The class was very 
large, and all its members wore black. 

After returning home there was a sumptuous feast, 
and before its close friends began to arrive with 
presents and congratulations, and kept coming until 
the young lady was quite overwhelmed with the good 
will of her friends. Those who were not able to 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. ; 7 

come in person sent cards or messengers. When all 
had departed, the young lady found herself the 
possessor of some valuable jewelry, kid gloves, prayer- 
books, flowering plants, and bouquets. 

If I have tired the reader with these details, I beg 
his pardon, as I have entered into them thinking that 
they might be of interest to some. What I now have 
to offer is an account of some excellent concerts, 
which it was my privilege to attend. 

Leipsic is an exceedingly musical place, and has 
numbered among its inhabitants many musicians of 
note, among whom are Wagner, Mendelssohn, Bach 
and Carl Reinecke. The latter, now an old white- 
haired man, still resides there, and is leader of the 
Gewandhaus orchestra, which has some seventy mem- 
bers, and during the winter, together with famous 
violinists, pianists, and singers, gives those weekly 
concerts, now world-renowned. The rate of admis- 
sion to these musical feasts is high, but tickets for 
fifty cents can be had for the final rehearsals, to which 
conservatory students are admitted free, and univer- 
sity students for half price. 

It was my good fortune to see Carl Reinecke both 
as performer and orchestral leader. He is a most 
delightful pianist, and with his peculiar touch — soft, 
caressing, firm, but never harsh — calls forth from the 
instrument such sweet tones as are seldom heard. 
As a musical conductor he is excellent, for he so 



78 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

thoroughly enters into the spirit of the compositions, 
that his every gesture and movement are interpre- 
tations. While thus actively engaged, his tall, slender 
body moves rhythmically to and fro, and his long 
white hair, which persists in falling into his face, 
keeps his left hand partly employed. 

One day we went to hear the great Spanish violin- 
ist, Sarasate. The large audience waited expectantly 
until he appeared, and then paid the most profound 
attention. He is a man of medium height, with black 
hair and mustache sprinkled with gray, a round face, 
and eyes that sparkle merrily at times. He is still 
fine looking, and must, in his younger days, have 
been handsome. His playing was wonderfully sweet 
and brilliant, and when the first selection was ended 
a storm of applause followed. Four or five en- 
cores were responded to before the crowd would 
disperse. Sarasate was very good natured about it, 
and smiled at the enthusiasm of his hearers. 

Careno and D'Albert, one evening, gave a concert 
in Crystal Palace. A number of D' Albert's composi- 
tions were rendered by the orchestra under the com- 
poser's direction, and several were executed on the 
piano by himself. His playing is of the stormy kind, 
and was not so well liked as that of his wife, Careno. 
She is a dark-eyed Spaniard, and would be pretty 
were it not for her embonpoint. She lias wonderful 
strength, and is an admirable performer. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 79 

Friday evening, December 16th, 1892, a concert 
was given at the old Gewandhaus, in honor of Rubin- 
stein, who was visiting in the city. Forty-eight 
years before he had played in the same hall as a boy 
of twelve, and it was known that he would be present 
at the anniversary, and hoped that at the close of the 
entertainment, he would favor the audience with a 
few selections. The house was crowded to its fullest 
extent, and all present listened attentively to the 
program, which consisted of Rubinstein numbers. 
At the close there was loud and continuous applause. 
The great musician arose and bowed repeatedly, and 
finally seeing that the multitude was not to be 
quieted, seated himself at the piano and played some 
twenty minutes. The people were wild with en- 
thusiasm, and when the music ceased, they stood on 
the seats, waved their handkerchiefs, shouted, clap- 
ped and stamped. Rubinstein arose from the piano, 
bowed, and amused all by making an impatient gest- 
ure for the audience to stop the deafening noise. 

During the second week of March, '93, King Al- 
bert of Saxony and his queen visited Leipsic. They 
were received with many demonstrations of loyalty, 
and a program for their entertainment was prepared. 
One day was set aside to visit different departments 
of the university, and my friend and I thought we 
would try to visit one of the lectures at which the 
king was to be present. We assumed a cool ex- 



80 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

terior, although we were anything but calm, in- 
wardly. A liveried official, who stood at the door, 
eyed us curiously as we passed, and when we stop- 
ped a moment on the stairs to read the notice tell- 
ing in what room the lecture was to be held, came 
rushing in and said we must not stand there. We 
hurried on up the stairs and lo! there was the janitor 
at the top. Thinking we would make the best of a 
bad matter, we proceeded as unconcernedly as pos- 
sible, and were surprised, when instead of refusing 
admittance, he politely showed us which door to 
enter. 

Another part of the royal program was a gala 
night at the theater. Of course, everybody wanted 
to go, and there was a great rush for tickets. An 
hour before the sale began people were forming in 
line outside the doors, and when they opened, a 
policeman stood inside to insure orderly conduct. 
Only four persons were allowed to walk side by side, 
and but a certain number were permitted to be in 
the room at a time. 

Everyone was attired in his best that evening, and 
as we arrived somewhat early, we amused ourselves 
by watching the people enter. There were officers 
in gay uniforms, citizens in full dress, and ladies in 
evening costume. The belle of the evening was at- 
tired in a heliotrope silk, cut low at the neck, with 
short sleeves, long train, ami decorations of Brussels 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 8 1 

lace. Just before the opening of the performance, 
the royal party took its place at the left of the stage. 
The king, a white-haired old man, large featured, 
somewhat bald, and rather portly, wore a dark blue 
uniform; the queen, a good-looking, but quite fleshy 
lady, was dressed in white satin. On her head was 
a silver crown, and in one of her hands, a bouquet 
of white lilies. The officers and ladies in attendance 
were stylish and distinguished looking. When all 
were seated the chief manager of the theater raised 
the cry of "Der Koenig lebe hoch," (long live the 
king,) in which all joined, repeating the last word, 
"hoch" three times. The honored guests then 
turned their attention to the opera, in which they 
seemed interested. They did not go into the " foyer" 
during the intervals between acts, but quietly took 
their departure at the close of the performance. 

Before leaving Leipsic it was my privilege and 
pleasure to see both the great German tragedy, 
" Faust," and to visit Auerbach's Keller, where Goethe 
first conceived the idea of writing the play, and 
where two of its scenes are laid. 

Auerbach's Keller is the oldest and most famous 
of all German wine-cellars. The house under which 
it is, was built after the Leipsic conflagration in 1420, 
when about four hundred wooden dwellings with 
straw roofs were burned. The place is named after 
Luther's friend and admirer, Dr. Heinrich Stromer, 
6 



82 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

who, according to the custom of the times, went by 
the name of his birthplace, Auerbach. 

A party of four of us one morning visited this 
restaurant, which is just beyond the old market- 
place on Grimmaischestrasse. Descending eight steps 
we found ourselves in the upper cellar, a medium 
sized room, with vaulted ceiling, and walls adorned 
with old paintings, in which the magician Faust is 
the central figure, and which time has almost oblit- 
erated. At several of the small tables men and 
women were sitting, eating and drinking. Ten steps 
more and we were in the lower cellar, where we 
seated ourselves at one of the tables and ordered 
drinks, two taking wine and my friend and I, mineral 
water. We sat directly in front of the cask on which 
Faust is said to have ridden out of the cellar. It is 
large, dark colored, and oval shaped, with carved 
head. The brightly burning gas-jets plainly showed, 
on the arched ceiling, the painted scenes from 
"Faust." The pictures in the upper room are very 
old, and are the ones which inspired in Goethe the 
idea of writing that greatest of German tragedies; 
those in the lower room are from the play itself, and 
consequently, much more modern. 

Before leaving, I asked the waiter to show us the 
underground passages leading from this place. He 
replied that they were no longer shown to sight- 
seers. I entreated him, but he remained firm. Re- 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 83 

solved to make a final effort, I offered him a fee, if 
he would comply with our request. Then he showed 
signs of yielding, and said he would ask the proprie- 
tor. Returning shortly, he said that we should fol- 
low him, and taking up a plank in the floor, and 
opening a door in the wall, with candle in hand he 
led the way. We entered a dark passage, which, as 
we advanced, grew narrower and lower, so that we 
were compelled to assume a stooping posture. The 
atmosphere was damp and cold, and from the stone 
walls trickled drops of water. After proceeding thus 
for some time, we suddenly emerged into a chamber, 
the so-called Hexenkueche (Witch's Kitchen.) At 
one side is a small fire-place, and scattered about are 
the stone utensils in which the old witch is said to 
have brewed the potion quaffed by Faust. 

There are two of these under-ground ways, lead- 
ing to Paulinerkirche and Pleissenburg, respectively. 
They are supposed to have been built about 1430, 
by the monks, so that they could go unobserved 
from the monasteries to the wine-cellar. One can- 
not go the entire length now as sewers bar the passage. 

On our way back, having now become accustomed 
to the darkness, we noticed what we had not seen 
before — thousands of bottles of wine stored all about 
us. The cellar once more reached, our guide kindly 
showed us some old relics, among them, a lock of 
Goethe's hair and a letter written by him. 



84 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 



CHAPTER XI. 

THE GREAT FAIR. 

LEIPSIC yearly has two great fairs, one at Easter, 
and one in the autumn. In the fall of '92 it 
was omitted on account of the prevalence of cholera, 
but the next spring it was held as usual. A number 
of days before the opening, booths began to be 
erected on all the public squares, and along both 
sides of the wider streets, just leaving space for 
teams to pass through. Rooms were rented in busi- 
ness blocks along the principal streets, and attention 
called to the wares by hundreds of gay colored signs, 
which decked the buildings from basement to roof. 
Around the promenade stood large wagon-loads of 
crockery, dishes, and vases, and on the ground the 
same in endless confusion — dishes, dishes, dishes, 
enough to stock hundreds of stores. People now 
began to come from all parts of Europe and many 
other countries, until the streets were so crowded 
that one could scarcely make his way through. The 
first seven days we could buy nothing as it was 
wholesale week, but we were allowed to look at the 
things, and the second and third weeks we could 
purchase all we wished. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 85 

There is scarcely anything one can think of that 
cannot be bought there — eatables, clothing, jewelry, 
household furniture and decorations, and playthings. 
One evening, on our way to the theater, we stopped 
and looked at the crockery, and found among it all 
sizes and designs of quaint beer-mugs, and the most 
daintily shaped majolica vases. On the opposite 
side of the street was a flying-circus, which as it bore 
its passengers round and round in rocking sail-boats, 
played lively airs. Just beyond was an animal show, 
a tent of "wonders," a mirror labyrinth, and an 
anatomical display in wax-works. As we made our 
way through the crowd we saw in the different booths: 
candies, cakes, toy-balloons, feather whirligigs, mus- 
lin, table-cloths, dress-goods, pipes, statuettes, etc. 

We made almost daily visits to the "messe" (fair), 
searching out the pretty things, making a few pur- 
chases, and wishing for the means to buy more. 
Everywhere there were jewels, and among them a 
profusion of garnet and amber ornaments. On the 
old market place was an Italian booth where charm- 
ing articles of branched coral were for sale, and be- 
yond, another displaying exquisite inlaid work in 
wood. In Auerbach's Hof costly bronzes, orna- 
mental work in silver, and polished brass utensils 
delighted the eye. Just in front of the theater on 
Augustusplatz the finest glassware was to be found — 
water-sets, vases, scent-bottles, etc. — of such delicate 



86 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

coloring, and with such rich gold ornamentations 
that it is simply indescribable. Near the center of 
the square a polite Swiss presided over his artistic 
carvings. There were easels, frames, glove-boxes, ink- 
stands, and models of Swiss cottages. It was amus- 
ing to hear the foreigners speak German. Each had a 
different pronunciation and way of expressing himself. 

During the "messe" we found Sunday the liveliest 
day of the week. All stores and places of amuse- 
ment were open, and hundreds of people from the 
surrounding villages and cities were present to have 
a "good time." When we went to church it seemed 
as though we must have mistaken the day. Dance- 
music floated on the air as the "merry-go-rounds" 
with their gay occupants spun around; people were 
crowding into the shows; sales were being made; 
children carried toy-balloons; young men and their 
sweet-hearts, blissfully happy, strolled about, and 
tired sight-seers ate luncheons, or rested on benches 
in the shade. 

Dr. R. was always very kind to his pupils, and one 
day invited a party of us to visit the "messe" with 
him. He first conducted us to a large '"merry-go- 
round," with an undulating track, and said we must 
take a ride. Resistance was of no avail, and we 
were all shortly spinning round and round, and 
laughing at Frau Dr. R., who was very much afraid 
whenever the car was on the down grade. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 87 

Next the Doctor wished us to visit the flea-circus, 
but a part of our crowd were fearful lest some of the 
performers might escape and attack them. The 
crowd surged in and out while we stood near the 
tent-door debating. The door-keeper assured us 
that there was not the slightest danger of any of the 
performers escaping, and at last, prejudice being over- 
come, we entered. The chief actors had tiny gold 
bands about their necks, to which small chains were 
attached. This we distinctly saw through a micro- 
scope. The race fleas were hitched to a variety of 
the most cunning little vehicles, and ran well; the 
dancers, attired in gay little dresses, waltzed in true 
German style; the combatants wielded their small 
pikes gracefully; and the climbers and tight-rope 
walkers acquitted themselves creditably. 

We were next conducted to another part of the 
city, where Dr. R. invited us to ride in the "sail-boat- 
flying-circus," but only one was willing to make the 
venture. While she and the doctor were sailing 
around, the remainder of the party stood by watch- 
ing and making sport of them, whenever they 
passed. 

It was growing late in the day, and after a little 
more sight-seeing, we had luncheon at a restaurant. 
The Doctor, having another engagement, now ex- 
cused himself and left us in his wife's care, and very 
admirably did she perform her part. We spent the 



88 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

remainder of the day in visiting- an animal show, in 
which trained monkeys, dogs, and ponies were the 
performers. The animals were extremely clever, 
and we were well entertained. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 89 



CHAPTER XII. 

SPRING EXCURSIONS. 

THE spring of '93 in Germany was an unusually 
early and pleasant one, and we improved the 
time by making frequent excursions into the country. 
A party of five, one day, visited Monarchenhuegel, 
where the three allied monarchs, Frederick William 
III. of Prussia, Alexander I. of Russia, and Francis I. 
of Austria tarried during the battle of Leipsic. The 
hill is a couple of miles beyond the place where Na- 
poleon stood, and is more elevated. A neat marble 
monument, and a small shrine, containing cannon-balls 
and the bones of soldiers and horses found in the 
neighboring fields, are here; also a museum, where 
uniforms, weapons, coins, and letters of generals of 
that time can be found. 

Another interesting walk was to the village of 
Doelitz, where stands an old castle with battered 
walls. Our way led through a number of villages 
and verdant meadows, and for a time along the 
Pleisse. The tranquilly flowing river, bordered with 
feathery willows and pretty villas in the midst of at- 
tractive gardens, and an old mill-pond, with its clucks, 
were delightfully picturesque. At the end of, per- 



90 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

haps, two hours, we reached our destination, and 
were looking at the half-buried cannon-balls and the 
bullet holes in the walls of the castle, about which 
was waged one of the hottest fights of 1813, when 
two peasant women, returning from their day's work 
in the field, passed us. They were very coarsely 
clad, and walked with a stiff, awkward gait that told 
of many hardships endured. 

The parks which surround the city were favorite 
resorts of ours. Rosenthal, a natural forest contain- 
ing hundreds of acres, pleased me most. In the 
part near the city there are an open meadow and arti- 
ficial lake, and the walks are bordered with beautiful 
shrubbery, through which one occasionally catches a 
glimpse of marble statues. Farther on the broad 
avenues and well-kept paths lead through the native 
wood, where deer skip about, nightingales sing, and 
wild flowers nod in the breeze. In the heart of this 
park stands an ancient oak, under which, long ago 
one of the kings breakfasted, and where the present 
king of Saxony sometimes lunches when out hunt- 
ing. 

Scheibenholz, too, is a pretty park, and we used 
often to go walking there. One day, a friend and I 
were strolling along one of the paths leading along 
the Pleisse, when we noticed that the ground in 
places was almost covered with pretty star-shaped 
flowers. Now, if there is anything I love, it is a 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 91 

flower, and I determined to pluck a bouquet. I 
thought, "How beautiful they will look in my room ! 
and I shall wear a bunch of them to-night on my 
bosom." My friend also thought that she would like 
to have some; so we pulled off our gloves, carefully 
made our way through the undergrowth to the spots 
where the flowers grew in greatest profusion. At 
last, we had as many as we could conveniently carry, 
and while drawing on my gloves I asked my friend 
to hold my bouquet. She took it, but ere I was 
ready to carry it again, I detected a disagreeable odor 
on my hands, and found to my disappointment that 
the starry flowers had been nourished by garlic. We 
threw them away and resumed our walk, and farther 
on saw several bunches of garlic-flowers lying at the 
side of the path. Evidently we had not been the 
only ones deceived. 

The last day that I was at Leipsic, was Sunday, and 
the 450th anniversary of the Archers' Club. Great 
preparations had been made, and a monstrous street 
procession was the result, representing ancient cos- 
tumes, buildings, the various trades and industries. 
Dozens of bands furnished music, and the streets 
were blocked with people. Every box, carriage, 
window, balcony, and even the house roofs were 
occupied. After the parade, the crowd went to 
the Archers' club house, in the suburbs, where there 
were music and dancing. 



92 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 



CHAPTER XIII. 

BERLIN. 

I HAVE promised you, kind reader, an account of 
our trip to the capital of the empire, whither we 
went the day after Christmas. Our crowd was com- 
posed of four girls — two from New Zealand, one from 
England, and myself — and it was with much joyous 
anticipation that we turned our faces northward. 
The train left Leipsic at 8:40 a. m., and in less than 
three hours we had reached our destination. So in- 
tensely cold was it that it seemed we must be some- 
where in the vicinity of the North Pole. We had 
previously selected our hotel, so that there was no 
time wasted, and fifteen or twenty minutes after 
alighting from the train our cab stopped at 27 Moh- 
renstrasse. This hotel, which was under the man- 
agement of the Y. M, C. A., was satisfactory in every 
way, and within a ten-minute walk of the principal 
attractions. 

Notwithstanding the severity of the weather, we 
visited the Zoological Garden after dinner. The wax- 
led along the Thiergarten, a large, beautiful park, 
formerly a hunting-ground. As our carriage rolled 
on, we watched with interest the gleaming statues 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 93 

among the trees, rivaling the snow in their whiteness; 
the elegant equipages containing gaily uniformed 
officers, and richly dressed ladies and gentlemen; and 
the handsome villas opposite the park. After a 
half hour's ride we reached the "Zoo," and soon were 
traversing its snowy paths. We came upon a party 
of skaters, whom we watched for some time and then 
hurried on. A number of the hardier animals were 
in sheds, but the majority were quartered in large 
heated buildings, in which there were more sight- 
seers than usual, on account of its being the Holidays. 
The center of attraction was the lion's lodge, where 
a family of cubs gamboled about like so many kit- 
tens. When they grew tired of playing together, 
they tried to catch the old lion's tail, and to bite her 
ears, but she was ill-natured because of her imprison- 
ment, and boxed their ears. 

After several hours spent in looking at the ani- 
mals, among which there were some rare specimens, 
we went to the aquarium on " Unter den Linden." 
Near the entrance were the snakes in glass compart- 
ments strown with sand, and furnished with running 
water. Reptiles of many kinds and sizes were here 
in different positions. One small one was drinking; 
a large boa-constrictor was curled up asleep, and 
others were crawling about. Next we came to the 
birds, strange monkeys, tortoises, and crocodiles, and 
then found ourselves in what seemed an under-ground 



94 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

cave with dark, overhanging rocks, aud numerous 
apertures in the sides, looking into river and sea, in 
whose sunlit waters members of the finny tribe sported 
about, and different marine animals were seen. There 
were pike, salmon, trout, cat-fish, mackerel, herring, 
sea-horses, devil, jelly, and star-fish, horseshoe-crabs, 
lobsters, different kinds of coral, and many other 
interesting sea-animals. From this place we emerged 
into a blue grotto, fitted up as a restaurant. It was 
now nearly supper-time, and we returned to our 
hotel to dine. We wished to attend one of Schil- 
ler's plays that evening, but the house was so crowded 
no tickets could be obtained, so we remained at our 
rooms and retired early, as we were quite fatigued. 

The next morning, Tuesday, we set out for the 
Royal Palace, and were soon on the famous street, 
Unter den Linden, which in summer, when the foli- 
age is out, must be beautiful, but now was noticeable 
only for its width and the manner in which it is laid 
out. In the center a space shaded by four rows of 
linden trees is reserved as a kind of park for the pub- 
lic, and on either side are a drive-way and side-walk. 
All along are fashionable shops, restaurants, and ho- 
tels, and farther on the palaces of Wilhelm I. and 
Empress Frederick, the University, Royal Opera 
House, and Armor)'. Next is the Schlossbruecke 
(Palace Bridge) across the Spree, and we stopped to 
admire the beauty of the white marble statues adorn- 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 95 

ing it. There are eight of them, placed upon granite 
pedestals, and representing the different stages of a 
warrior's career. Then crossing a square, on which 
there was still a number of Xmas-booths, we found 
ourselves before the palace. A large inner court had 
to be traversed to reach the visitors' entrance, where 
a dignified official opened the door for us, and bade 
us be seated in the hall. The exterior of the royal 
residence had been rather disappointing, but the 
glimpse of the interior that we now had was grand. 

Shortly the guide appeared and led us up an in- 
clined way to the second story. On entering the 
first room we were all required to put on heavy felt 
slippers over our shoes, so that the polished floors 
would not be marred. This afforded us much amuse- 
ment, as we could not raise our feet, but were obliged 
to slide them along. Thus we went through the 
palace! and you may imagine how comical we 
looked. 

Of the seven hundred rooms in the palace, only 
the state apartments are shown to the public. They 
are all grand and contain many rich treasures, and 
as we passed from one to another, I wondered how 
it would seem to be a queen, and live amid such sur- 
roundings. But there was something cold and chill- 
ing about the very elegance, and it seemed as though 
one would tire of it all after a time. With a few ex- 
ceptions all that remains to me now of those royal 



g6 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

apartments is a confused idea of polished floors, 
paneled and carved oak, stucco-work, ceilings from 
which beautiful beings looked down upon us, walls 
covered with silk damask or painted by eminent 
artists, sculptured mantel-pieces, costly ornaments, 
silk upholstered furniture, and crystal chandeliers. 

The Throne Room excels all others in the richness 
of its decorations. The ceiling is exquisitely painted, 
the walls adorned with relief forms, and the main 
door handsomely carved. The immense chandelier 
is of rock crystal, and the throne-chairs of silver. 
Above the throne hangs a large silver shield, and op- 
posite, on a buffet, are placed gold and silver plates, 
drinking-cups, candle-sticks, etc. In front of one 
of the windows stands a high silver column, which 
was presented to Wilhelm I. by the soldiers, on the 
6oth anniversary of his entering the army. 

The Picture Gallery — a long, narrow room — con- 
tains portraits of royal personages and pictures of 
great historical events, and is used as a dining-room 
on state occasions. 

The White Room is the largest apartment, and is 
used during great festivities. It is lighted with 2,600 
tapers, is adorned with white marble statues and 
busts, and is strikingly beautiful. 

When we had made the rounds of the palace, we 
were quite weary, but did not stop to rest, as our 
time was limited, and we wished to see as much as 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 97 

possible. We next directed our steps to the Ruhm- 
eshalle (Armory), a grand building adorned with 
numerous sandstone figures. In the interior are 
mosaic floors, marble stair-cases, statues, bronze 
busts of famous men, and the finest mural paintings. 
In the different rooms are to be seen armor, daggers, 
swords, guns, cannons, mortars, shells, etc., of dif- 
ferent countries and ages. Among them richly jew- 
eled weapons, formerly the property of princes, kings, 
and generals, attract the attention by their beauty 
and great value. 

Evening came, bringing with it many attractions. 
We chose to attend " Zauberfloete" (Magic Flute), 
at the Royal Opera House. The crowd was large, 
but the Emperor and family were not present. This 
disappointment, however, was compensated by the 
excellent singing and acting, and the sweet music. 
Between acts we went into the "foyer," where we 
had the opportunity of seeing many of the officers 
and prominent men of Berlin. The people of this 
city, as a rule, are fine looking, fashionable, and of 
larger stature than the Saxons. 

Wednesday morning, a great pleasure was in store 
for us in the way of a visit to Kaiser Wilhelm the 
First's palace. We were shown into a small room, 
rich in bronzes and carving, where we were obliged 
to wait until a party should be formed. A number 
of others arrived, and at the end of a quarter of an 
7 



98 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

hour, the guide appeared with his bunch of keys. 
The first thing of note that struck us with its beauty- 
was the broad, white marble stair-case, on whose 
first landing stand two magnificent statues and two 
gold chairs. 

There is a home-like air about this palace that is 
lacking in the others. One reason, I presume, is 
that the floors are carpeted. This was done to re- 
move the danger of the old emperor and empress' 
slipping on the smooth, polished wood. On the 
gr#und-floor, facing upon Unter den Linden, is the 
study. Here the "greise Kaiser" used to work, and 
ofttimes would leave his desk, go to the window — 
the Historical Window — and greet his people. Every- 
thing remains as left by him. On the desk and 
tables are thousands of dollars' worth of costly pres- 
ents given by friends on different occasions. Each 
of us in turn stood at the "Historical Window," and 
as I tarried there the "Spirit of the Past" came 
upon me, and I seemed to see the kindly face of the 
departed emperor, who, with words of affection, was 
addressing " his children." But the part)- was mov- 
ing on and I was aroused from my reverie. 

Our guide, an extremely kind and obliging man, 
had for years been in the service of the old " kaiser," 
and seemed never to be so happy as when relating 
some incident concerning his beloved master. As- 
cending the marble stairs we were conducted through 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 99 

apartment after apartment, each furnished in its own 
peculiar way and having its own treasures. In one 
room there were large vases and a score of orna- 
mental things of lapis lazuli— a beautiful blue 
stone worth its weight in gold. When we entered 
the ball-room under the dome, the "fuehrer" said 
we should take a certain position in the apart- 
ment and listen. Standing opposite, he called out 
"kaiser," and one could have imagined other voices 
were mocking, for the name was echoed and re- 
echoed, at first loudly, then softer and softer, until it 
died away. "Now," said he, "I am going to call 
out again, and you can count the echoes." We did 
so, and ascertained that the word was repeated twenty- 
five times. 

A trip to Charlottenburg had been planned for the 
afternoon. In order to get a car, we were obliged 
to walk some distance and pass through the Bran- 
denburger Thor — a large gate at one end of Unter 
den Linden — supported by twelve Doric columns 
and surmounted by a statue of Victory, which was 
carried to Paris by Napoleon in 1807, and brought 
back seven years later by the Prussians. As we 
were going through one of the passages for pedes- 
trians, a carriage rumbled through the central drive- 
way, which is reserved for the use of the royal fam- 
ily. One of the girls ran back to see if she could 
catch a glimpse of the royal personages, but as the 



IOO FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

carriage was closed she could see only the outlines 
of a man and woman. 

Had the weather been warm, we would have had 
a delightful view from the top of the car, as our 
course lay through the center of the Thiergarten; 
but as it was cold we chose to remain inside. When 
we reached Charlottenburg, we had no difficulty in 
finding the palace, for the extensive grounds and 
statue-marked entrance at once attracted our atten- 
tion. Our guide, this time, was a woman — perhaps, 
forty years of age, tall, slender, with black hair and 
eyes — who took much pride in explaining every- 
thing about the palace. This royal residence, which 
received its name from Queen Charlotte, wife of 
Frederick I., is not at present occupied. Of the 
dozens of rooms shown us, were three that pleased 
me especially. The mural decorations of the first 
are alternate panels of red silk tapestry and mirrors, 
while the walls of the second are covered with rare 
old china, held in place by wire frames. The third 
(the Garden Room) has a circular glass front, which 
in summer opens upon a green lawn, and from shady 
nooks graceful marble figures look forth to charm 
the eye. In this delightful arbor-like room the la- 
mented Emperor Frederick III. passed a part of his 
latter days. 

From the chapel we entered the garden, and strolled 
down a drive-way bordered on one side by busts 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. IOI 

of eminent men, and after some minutes reached an 
avenue running at right angles. Turning our faces 
in this direction, a charming vista stretched before 
us. On either side were tall, stately evergreen trees 
with ivy-wound trunks, and closing the prospect in 
the distance, the white marble mausoleum. When 
we had reached the tomb, and were mounting the 
steps, a liveried official came to act as guide. Within, 
a soft, blue light lay over all, and gave an added 
charm to the interior. There is a quiet grandeur 
about the place that is very impressive, and when 
we stood before the reclining marble figures of Kaiser 
Wilhelm the First's father and mother, so exquisitely 
carved by Rauch, we were transported. Those white 
forms, especially that of Queen Louisa, about which 
a thin drapery clings, seem more than marble. The 
sarcophagi of the late emperor and his wife — at that 
time not finished — were sculptured by the same 
masterly hand. In the rear of the building stands 
an altar, and on either side a sculptured marble 
candelabrum representing the three Graces and the 
Hours. Divine services are held here on the days 
on which the spirits of the silent occupants took 
their flight. 

Returned to our hotel, we had a dainty supper, 
and then had the pleasure of hearing Frau Rosa 
Sucher in "Tannhaeuser " at the Royal Opera 
House. The whole opera was well rendered, but 



102 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

the sublime "Evening Star" was sweetest of all. 

Ere retiring, we wished to have some hot lemon- 
ade, and were greatly amused at the puzzled ex- 
pression on the head waiter's face when he took the 
order. Evidently he had never heard of such a 
drink before. "Hot lemonade!" said he. "How is 
it prepared? Is it first made and then boiled ?" We 
informed him of the mode of its preparation, and 
he appeared relieved. 

Thursday morning, we visited the Old Museum, a 
truly imposing edifice opposite the Royal Palace, and 
connected with the New Museum by a colonnade. 
Our time and attention were given to the art depart- 
ment, in which are many fine pictures by the old 
masters. 

We took advantage of the few remaining hours to 
do some shopping. The stores along the principal 
streets were elegant; but those that interested us 
most were found in a busy arcade. 

We had been misinformed about the leaving-time 
of our train, and so had to wait several hours at the 
station. We entered one of the restaurants, which 
take the place of waiting-rooms, and passed the time 
philosophically by studying the different characters 
about us. Nearly all the tables were occupied by 
travelers, passing the time as is usual in Germany — 
chatting, drinking, smoking. Whenever a train was 
announced, there was a gathering together of bundles 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 103 

and hurrying out; but the vacated seats were soon 
taken by new-comers, and so the time passed until 
our train arrived. We were so fortunate as to have 
a compartment alone, and wrapping ourselves in our 
furs, lay back among the cushions, resting, until the 
"schaffner" called out, "Leipsic." 






104 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 



CHAPTER XIV. 

DRESDEN. 



TIME passed quickly, as it always does when one 
is busy. Stern old Winter had taken his de- 
parture, and smiling Spring was with us instead. Al- 
though it was but the latter week in April, the 
meadows were green, the trees in blossom, and the 
garden-flowers in bloom. Whenever we went into 
the street, boys and girls came running up to us to 
sell March-cups; old women held out their baskets 
of blue violets, and the flower-stalls greeted us with 
the sweet odor of hyacinths. Everybody, even the 
decrepit old man, the pale invalid, and the little child, 
was out in the gardens and parks to enjoy the gen- 
tle breezes and the golden sunshine that Spring had 
brought. There was vacation at the University, and 
yielding to the general impulse to go abroad, I de- 
cided to go to Dresden for a few days. I had no 
companion this time, except a "Baedecker," but it 
proved a very good friend, indeed. The journey oc- 
cupied but two hours, and the time was pleasantly 
passed in noting the things along the way. At first, 
the country was as flat as it is about Chicago, but as 
we advanced it became hilly and finally mountainous. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 105 

In the fields, men and women were plowing, plant- 
ing, and pulling weeds out of the grass. What 
seemed comical to me was to see men plowing with 
cows. The animals went along so composedly that 
one could scarcely see them move, and I wondered 
how long, at that rate, it would take to plow an or- 
dinary sized field. As we approached Dresden the 
scenery became beautiful. The hills and mountains 
displayed the dark and light green of fir and decid- 
uous trees, from among which castles occasionally 
reared their stately towers. 

I again took lodging in one of the Y. M. C. A. 
hotels, and after depositing my baggage, started out, 
guide-book in hand, for Bruehl Terrace. A short 
walk, and I stood before the imposing flight of steps 
leading up to the Terrace. I could not but stop to 
admire the gilded sand-stone statues, glittering like 
gold in the sunlight, which are placed on either side 
at the top and foot of the stairs, and then mounted 
the long flight of steps. From the Terrace such a 
grand panorama spread before me that I had no de- 
sire to leave the place for some half hour. At my 
feet, spanned by three bridges, rolled the river Elbe, 
bearing upon its broad bosom freight and pleasure 
boats; opposite was the new part of the city, and in 
the distance a chain of high, rugged, wooded hills. 
While standing at the stone wall which borders the 
Terrace, I heard music, and lookin"' about saw a 



106 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

band crossing the bridge just below me. As is usual, 
a crowd was following, and kept increasing until, 
when the musicians stopped at the palace near by, to 
serenade the king, it had grown to large propor- 
tions. Becoming tired, I looked about for a seat, 
and as none of the benches were vacant, seated my- 
self beside a German girl, who was crocheting. I 
was much interested in watching the crowd about 
me, the river, and the pedestrians and vehicles con- 
stantly crossing the old stone bridge, which has stood 
for six centuries, and which Jean Paul Richter called 
" the Triumphal Arch of Dresden." 

I could have dreamed away many hours at that 
delightful place, had it not been that a slight faint- 
ness warned me that the dinner hour was passing. 
Consulting my good counselor, Baedecker, I ascer- 
tained that there was a first-class restaurant not far 
away, on the Terrace, and set out in quest of it. I 
walked along in the shade of the linden trees, ad- 
miring the beautiful tulip and hyacinth beds, and 
found the Belvedere — the restaurant I was looking 
for — at the end of the Terrace. It has beautiful 
grounds which rise gradually above the Terrace, and 
I found a desirable place at one of the small tables 
on the lawn, where I could still have the Elbe pano- 
rama before me. A neatly dressed waiter brought 
me dinner, which had been prepared to please the 
eye as well as the palate, and so I was surrounded 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 107 

with all the requisites of a feast. A number of per- 
sons were at the other tables, and before I took my 
departure, two of America's fashionable daughters 
took seats at a table opposite and ordered luncheon. 

The Zoological Garden, which I wished to visit 
next, lies a number of miles from the heart of the 
city, so I took a cab. Perhaps some of my readers 
wonder why I visited so many Zoological Gardens; 
but they must remember that the grounds are usu- 
ally worth seeing in themselves, besides being popu- 
lar resorts. 

At the entrance to the "Garden" stands a hotel, 
where some of the most fashionable people were 
spending the afternoon. I passed on, and wandered 
up and down the winding paths until I had seen all 
that I cared to, and then started on my homeward 
way through an adjoining park, called " Grosser Gar- 
ten." After having gone some distance, I suddenly 
came upon an avenue bordered by grand old trees, 
where hundreds of people were promenading, and 
elegant turn-outs dashed by. I sauntered along with 
the crowd, and soon came to the end of the avenue, 
where two white statues mark the entrance to what 
was once a royal garden, and in the midst of which 
stands the old palace, now used as a museum. The 
grounds, with their rare shrubs and trees and beau- 
tiful flowers, were delightful, and the pansies — Oh, 
such beauties as they were! The large, velvety 



108 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

flowers completely covered the parterres, making 
them one mass of white, yellow and blue. While 
strolling about, I came to a lake of considerable size, 
back of the palace, and upon its left shore found the 
magnet — a restaurant with shady garden — which 
attracted the society people. Thinking this would 
be a good place to rest, I looked about for a seat, 
and secured one after some difficulty, for although 
the carriages kept coming and going, and the crowd 
constantly changing, yet there were but few unoc- 
cupied tables in the garden. As the day was warm, 
ice-cream and iced drinks, as well as beer, were in 
demand, although not nearly so many ices are used 
in Germany as in America. The cream I ordered 
was dotted with small, brown specks, which I at first 
was at a loss to account for, but which proved to be 
powdered vanilla-bean used instead of extract. 
Many, after disposing of their refreshments, strolled 
about for a time, and the drivers while waiting, in 
order to keep the horses under better control, drove 
round and round the lake, stopping at times to 
accept a glass of beer, which their indulgent masters 
sent them. I remained, studying the life about me, 
until it began to grow late, and then almost reluc- 
tantly left the attractive place, which apparently was 
as crowded as when I first saw it. 

The following morning I took a walk about the 
city, until the Museum was opened. Nothing of note 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. IOQ 

came under my observation, except a quaint fountain 
resembling a wayside chapel, an old convent, and the 
Zwinger, an immense ancient building of the Rococo 
style, inclosing three sides of a square — the Museum 
occupying the fourth side. It was the intention of 
the builder to furnish the Zwinger with luxurious 
Roman baths and gardens, but after spending im- 
mense sums, he was obliged to abandon the project 
for the want of further means, and now the incom- 
plete edifice stands a monument to man's folly. 

I had now reached the Museum — a building of the 
Renaissance style, adorned with statues of artists 
and poets — and passed up stairs to the art gallery. 
I soon sought out the gem of the collection, Ra- 
phael's "Sistine Madonna," which I found in a room 
by itself. On one of the soft seats opposite, sat a 
young man — probably an art student — with folded 
arms. He never moved while I was in the room, 
and seemed to be lost in rapture over the great 
master-piece. A curtain has just been drawn back, 
and the Madonna, surrounded by numberless sweet 
cherub-faces, with the Christ-child in her arms, is 
looking out into the distance with a world of mean- 
ing in her dark, meditative eyes. At her right is St. 
Barbara, at her left Pope Sixtus, and in the fore- 
ground two cherubs with lovely innocent faces. The 
coloring in the picture is fine and well preserved. I 
would have enjoyed remaining here longer than I did, 



IIO FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

but my time was limited, and there were other paint- 
ings to be seen. Among those of note are: "The 
Tribute Money," by Titian; "Virgin and Child," and 
" Neptune Stilling the Winds," by Murillo, and 
"Adoration of the Shepherds," by Corregio. The 
modern paintings which pleased me most are: "Christ 
Before the Learned Men," "The Crucifixion," "The 
Evening Prayer," " Summer," and "The Last Fare- 
well." It is impossible to describe pictures satisfac- 
torily. They must be seen to be appreciated. Suf- 
fice it to say, that of those I saw some are so beau- 
tiful, so life-like, so affecting, that I almost forgot 
they were but representations and not the things 
themselves. Before leaving, I took another peep at 
the "Sistine Madonna," and there sat the art student 
still gazing at the picture before him. 

It would not do to leave Dresden without visiting 
the Opera House, which is said to be one of the 
finest buildings in Europe, and in front of which 
stands on a mosaic square the equestrian statue of 
King John. Meyerbeer's opera, " The Huguenots," 
was to be given the last evening of my stay, and I 
was so fortunate as to obtain a good seat in the par- 
quet. The chairs, I found very comfortable, being 
furnished with springs and upholstered with crim- 
son velvet. In front of me sat five Americans, resi- 
dents of the city, I think, for there is an American 
colony at Dresden. At my right was a Frenchman, 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I I I 

and at my left a German lady and her daughter. 
The costumes worn by the actors were elegant, 
and all played and sang their parts well. The chief 
singer was a foreigner, as one could detect by her 
pronunciation, which, although good, lacked that in- 
definable something to make it essentially German. 
Her sweet, bird-like singing called forth round after 
round of applause. The orchestral music, too, was 
all that could be desired. 

On my way to the depot, next morning, I crossed 
the old stone bridge, from which I had a good view 
of both parts of the city. There was abundance of 
time before the starting of the train, so I wandered 
leisurely along. Stopping occasionally at one of the 
piers, which project at both sides like balconies, and 
are furnished with seats. When I reached the other 
side, I came upon a square, and having forgotten 
just which way led to the depot, seated myself and 
was consulting my guide-book, when I heard some 
one shout. Looking up I saw a sprinkling-cart com- 
ing directly towards me, and I had just time to escape 
a morning bath. My grip-sack, which I had left on 
the bench, received a slight shower. Having learned 
which route to take, I again set out and reached the 
station without further experiences. The "schnell- 
zug" soon came and shortly was speeding towards 
Leipsic, where I arrived in time to have a pleasant 
chat before dinner. 



112 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 



CHAPTER XV. 

WEIMAR. 



MY sojourn in Germany was rapidly drawing to 
a close. It was now May and the weather 
continued delightful, which was highly gratifying to 
me, as I wished to spend a few days at Weimar, be- 
fore saying good-by to Germany. I again had no 
other companion than a trusty "Baedecker." My 
friend, Miss M., was busy with her music, and had 
decided to remain abroad another year, so that she 
would have opportunity during vacations to visit 
what places she desired to see. 

When, after a ride of an hour and a half, I stood 
at the Weimar depot, looking about, I could see but 
little of the city, as it lies in a valley, at a consider- 
able distance beyond. By taking a cab, however, I, 
in a short time, reached the hotel I had chosen, and 
having deposited my baggage and consulted my 
guide-book, started out to visit the Schiller House, a 
neat, three-story structure, with tiled roof and dor- 
mer windows. Upon ringing the bell, an old woman 
came to the door and informed" me that I would find 
the guide in the third story, where the Schiller rooms 
are. I mounted the narrow, dark stairs and found 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I 1 3 

that a small party of girls had preceded me. We 
were shown the rooms — parlor, study, and bed- 
room — but were most interested in the study, because 
it was here the poet worked and died. The floor is 
bare, and the walls, covered with a cheap, dark 
paper, are adorned with a few colored pictures, and 
portraits of the poet. At our left as we enter, 
stands a spinet, upon which Frau Schiller used to 
play, and upon it lies a stringless guitar — fit emblem 
of the departed bard. There, in front of the side 
window, are his chair and writing-desk, and just back 
of it, in the corner, the bed upon which he breathed 
his last. The sleeping-room is so small that the bed 
was brought out into the study during Schiller's last 
illness, so that he might be made more comfort- 
able. A small table with two candle-sticks stands at 
the bedside, and hanging about, as well as covering 
the bed, are many laurel wreaths. At the head, 
taking the place of a pillow, is — what is almost start- 
ling at first — a picture of the death mask framed and 
surrounded by an evergreen wreath. The kind old 
man, who was our guide, spoke feelingly of the de- 
ceased poet. " It is too bad," said he, " that he died 
just when he had reached the point where he might 
have lived comfortably, and have devoted himself to 
his literary work, without being harassed by those 
cares incident to poverty." He also expressed the 
opinion that Schiller merits more praise than Goethe, 



114 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

because he was poor and had so much to overcome, 
while Goethe was a favored son of fortune. 

The next place of interest visited was Goethe's 
house, a large, comfortable dwelling given to the 
poet by his friend and patron, Duke Carl August. I 
was first directed up-stairs, where I found a different 
guide for each set of rooms. What first strikes one 
is the vast difference between the interior of this 
house and that where Schiller dwelt. Here are 
dozens of apartments with polished floors, uphol- 
stered furniture, and many treasures of art, while at 
the former place there is but scanty room, and the 
furnishings are plain, and scarcely more than neces- 
sity requires. 

Besides the oil portraits in the Goethe picture-gal- 
lery, there are about three hundred of the poet's draw- 
ings hung about the different rooms. The Juno Room 
— so called from a cast of Juno's head standing on a 
pedestal near the door — is adorned with Italian 
paintings, and contains the piano on which Men- 
delssohn played at the age of ten, when visiting 
Goethe. The other apartments contain hundreds of 
minerals, stuffed birds, fishes, reptiles, mounted skel- 
etons, and electrical apparatus — all of which testify 
to the indomitable energy and ceaseless investiga- 
tion of one who was not only author, but statesman, 
theater director, artist, and scientist as well. 

Having made the rounds up-stairs, I was shown 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I I 5 

the way to the library and bed-room in the rear of 
the building, on the first floor. Everything is kept 
in the same order as it was when the poet was alive, 
and one could easily imagine he had gone away 
but for a few minutes. There are the cards left by 
his callers; there, his books; there, his chair; and 
there, on the table, the cushion on which he leaned 
his elbows while dictating to his amanuensis, oppo- 
site. The scrap-basket, too, which stood at his side, 
and in which he had a habit of laying his large 
kerchief, is in its place, and before one of the win- 
dows stands a plate containing some earth, which, 
shortly before his death, he had brought in to be 
analyzed. 

The bed-chamber, which is entered through the 
library, has a window opening into the garden, and 
everything is arranged with a view to comfort and 
convenience. The walls about the bed are hung 
with woolen tapestry, a rug is spread in front, and a 
thermometer and bell-cord are within reach. A tea- 
urn, tea-cup and saucer, spoon, and bottle of medi- 
cine are placed on a small table beside the large arm- 
chair which stands opposite the window. In this 
chair it was that Goethe was seated when the Death 
Angel overshadowed him, and when perceiving the 
gathering darkness he asked for more light. "More 
light!" those are the words last spoken by Ger- 
many's illustrious poet. And who shall say that 



Il6 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

they were not soon realized in that brighter sphere 
beyond? 

The place to which I next directed my footsteps 
was the park. On the way, I passed the fine bronze 
statue of Goethe and Schiller, before the theater of 
which Goethe was for many years director. The 
poets are represented as standing side by side. 
Goethe, with his left hand upon Schiller's right shoul- 
der, holds in the other hand a laurel wreath, which 
Schiller, who clasps a roll of manuscript in his left 
hand, is about to grasp with his right. On the ped- 
estal is an inscription, which reads: "To the Poet- 
pair by the Fatherland." Farther on I saw the 
house in which Frau von Stein formerly lived, and 
shortly after I reached the park. If, by some magic 
means, I could cause my readers to see the park, as 
it was that May morning, I should be happy. But, 
alas ! it is not in my power. I can but mention the 
grand old avenues; the walks through green mead- 
ows dotted with clumps of yellow, pink, white, and 
red flowering shrubs; the woodland paths leading to 
picturesque ravines, and along the winding stream, 
upon whose dark bosom were mirrored waving 
grasses and overhanging trees; the golden sunshine; 
the balmy air, and the happy, joyous birds: all 
combined to make it one of the most delightful 
places imaginable, and I walked on and on, as if in 
a happy dream. After a time, 1 crossed the river to 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 117 

a meadow, beyond which, on a highway leading 
along the foot of a hill, I saw a plain, frame dwell- 
ing — Goethe's Garden House, where the poet lived 
in summer — surrounded by a green hedge. When I 
had reached the house, I rang the gate-bell, and a 
lame girl came to admit me into the yard, and then 
conducted me through the house. The study is on 
the second floor, and the poet's parlor and bed-room, 
on the first floor. Everything is extremely plain; 
but a more delightful abode for a poet could not be 
desired. Back of the cottage is a path winding up 
the wooded hill-side, and some distance up one 
comes to some benches, a stone table, and a tablet 
on which is engraved a short poem to Frau von 
Stein. Here Goethe used to love to sit and medi- 
tate, while the sunbeams stole through the interlac- 
ing branches to kiss the modest wild flowers, the 
squirrels chattered overhead, the birds warbled, and 
the beautiful valley lay before him. It is, indeed, a 
place where one would like to dream away whole 
hours at a time. I rested here, and then returned to 
the city to dine. 

After dinner, I set out on another long walk to 
the cemetery, for I wished to see where the remains 
of Goethe and Schiller lie. The burial ground is on 
a hill-side at the edge of the city, and I wandered 
about for some time before finding the Fuerstengruft 
(Ducal Vault). I entered the spacious portico, and 



Il8 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

knocked at the door, as I had been informed a guide 
would be there at that time; but there was no re- 
sponse. I seated myself and waited, but all was 
silent. I was just beginning to despair, when I heard 
voices within, and soon the lock clicked, the ponder- 
ous door turned upon its hinges, and the guide 
ushered out two boys. Permission to view the in- 
terior was granted me, at which I was very glad. 
The room first entered is fitted up as a chapel, and 
has a number of openings in the floor, through 
which the caskets are lowered into the under-ground 
part. 

The upper part of the vault was cool, and the 
lower part cold — so cold that I was obliged to throw 
something about my shoulders. The guide, with 
candle in hand, led the way down to the cold, dark, 
and silent abode of the dead, where are dozens of 
caskets of all sizes containing the remains of ducal 
families. Near the foot of the stairs, side by side, 
stand two large, iron-bound, oak caskets covered 
with wreaths of everlasting flowers and laurel, and 
about this spot it is that the interest of pilgrims to 
the "German Athens" centers; for here is all that 
remains of the admired Goethe and the beloved 
Schiller. A feeling of mingled sorrow and thank- 
fulness stole over me as I tarried there — sorrow at 
the decay of the fleshly tabernacles in which formerly 
dwelt such gifted souls, and thankfulness for the 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 1 9 

privilege of standing beside the honored dust. Near 
by rests Duke Carl August, and in the rear of the vault 
a Catholic duchess, who had a handsome addition 
built and consecrated for her remains, which repose 
beside those of her husband — a Protestant — resting 
on unconsecrated ground. 

Not wishing to remain longer in the chill glo®m 
of the vault, I gave the guide a fee, and once more 
stepped into the outer world, where were warmth and 
light and life. I visited a lot where some of Goethe's 
descendants are buried, and then returning to the 
city, had a dish of ice-cream at a restaurant near the 
Ducal Palace. 

The next morning — my last at Weimar— I walked 
over to the Stadtkirche (built in 1400), of which 
Herder was once pastor, and where his remains are 
interred. His statue stands in front of the old church, 
and back of it is the house in which he lived, still 
used as a parsonage. 

I had now seen the chief places of interest, with 
the exception of Liszt's house, where the great mu- 
sician lived for thirty-eight years. I was not study- 
ing music, so did not at the time care especially to 
visit the place, but have since regretted not doing 
so. 

When I reached the depot, I found that I had 
some time to wait, and seated myself on one of the 
benches in the adjoining park, where the hawthorne 



120 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

was in full bloom. A number of children playing 
about, and people passing by served to make time 
pass more quickly. At length the train came, and 
soon I had left behind me the Poet's City, where 
once shone some of the brightest stars that ever 
rose above the literary horizon. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

LONDON. 



IT was May 29th, 1893, and the final day of my so- 
journ in Germany. All preliminaries had been 
arranged. A berth on an ocean steamer had been 
secured; my trunk forwarded by freight to Liver- 
pool; the parting calls made, and a cab engaged to 
call for me, so that nothing now remained to be done 
but to strap my valise and eat breakfast. Although it 
was early for the boarders to be up, they soon put in 
their appearance, as they said they were going to 
"see me off." The cab came at 6:10 a. m., and while 
Miss M. and I entered it, our friends walked on. 
We were soon all at the station, where we were 
joined by a young German lady, whose acquaintance 
I had made at the university, and by my tutor, Dr. 
Rampendahl, and his wife. The train was soon 
made up, so that there was but little time to wait, 
and after a few parting words and sad farewells, I 
stepped aboard. Just as I did so, Frau Dr. R. 
gave me some beautiful flowers — pink roses, white 
carnations, forget-me-nots and maiden-hair ferns. 
Oh, they were so lovely, and smelled so sweet! and 
were a constant delight not only to me but to those 



122 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

about me. One lady said, "Your roses are so re- 
freshing. They smell like a whole garden." 

The "through-coach" in which I rode differed 
somewhat from the ordinary ones, in that it had at 
one side, extending its whole length, an aisle, into 
which the compartments opened. At first, I was 
all alone, but after a time was joined by several 
women, who were also going to London. Among 
them was a young German woman and an English 
"bachelor-girl," a resident of London. The first 
part of the journey was pleasant, as the day was 
cool and the country interesting. We had glimpses 
of women and men eating their morning luncheons 
in the fields, in some of which hundreds of red pop- 
pies nodded their pretty heads. Quaint villages and 
busy cities were passed in rapid succession. Noon 
came, and we ate our luncheons, but only the 
"bachelor-girl" had anything to drink. Nothing 
could be bought on the train, and the stops at the 
stations were too short to admit of making any pur- 
chases. We appealed to the conductor, and he told 
us in the most consoling way, that about the middle 
of the afternoon we should be allowed a fifteen- 
minutes' stop at a town in Holland, where the most 
excellent bouillon was to be had. It seemed a long 
time to wait when we were so thirsty, but as we 
could do no better, impatiently endured it until the 
train stopped, and then, all like half-famished creat- 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 23 

ures, rushed into the restaurant. From this on, the 
journey was tedious and uninteresting. The part 
of Holland through which we now passed was al- 
most like a desert. There was nothing but a barren 
waste of sand, dotted with a few stunted firs, and as 
the train sped along, the dust flew about it so that 
we had to close the windows, and even then it sifted 
through the cracks. It was so fine, and looked so 
much like smoke as it rose from the floor, that we 
became alarmed, thinking the coach was on fire. We 
called the conductor, but he assured us it was noth- 
ing but dust. 

At 9:30 p. m., we reached Flushing, where a channel 
steamer was awaiting our train, and which soon bore 
us off to Queensboro, England, where, after a quiet 
passage, we arrived next morning about 7 o'clock. 
Here our baggage was inspected, and then we again 
resumed our journey. At 8 o'clock a. m., I found 
myself in London, and I must confess that the 
thought of being alone in that great English me- 
tropolis, at first made me somewhat nervous, but 
that soon passed away, and I had a most enjoyable 
stay, being favored with fair weather, that most de- 
sirable of all things in London. I was happily situ- 
ated in a good hotel, and after eating a hearty break- 
fast, and consulting my guide-book, started out to 
see the sights. 

I first went to the "Bank," the largest monetary 



124 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

establishment in the world, covering eight acres, 
having a capital of over £ 14,000,000, and employ- 
ing one thousand clerks. Here I took a "bus," and 
from the top of it had an excellent view of every- 
thing. There were tally-ho and hackney coaches, 
busses filled within and without, large covered wagons, 
two-wheeled vehicles, elegant landaus, hand-carts, 
tricycles, and bicycles — all in one grand — I was go- 
ing to say confusion, but that would not be quite 
true, for through the skillfulness of the drivers and 
the vigilance of the policemen, all get along quite 
well. The escapes, though, were sometimes so nar- 
row as to cause me some uneasiness. The side- 
walks, likewise, were crowded with well-dressed men 
and women, working people, soldiers with bright, 
red coats and little turban-shaped, or black Scotch 
caps, boot-blacks, and boys and girls and women 
selling papers; young women, poorly clad and hag- 
gard, with bunches of beautiful roses, were pursuing 
the well-dressed people, and beseeching them to buy; 
poor, crippled match-girls, with imploring looks, 
were offering their wares for sale; and women, hold- 
ing a child in one arm, and a few cheap articles to 
sell in the other, were pushed so near the edge of 
the walk that their dresses were all soiled and torn 
by the passing vehicles. Such are the pictures that 
every day greet one's eyes in the London thorough- 
fares! Wealth and poverty! Comfort and misery! 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I 25 

and one must be hard-hearted, indeed, if he be not 
touched by the suffering about him. Some of those 
people I think I shall never forget so long as I live. 
After a ride of some twenty minutes, I alighted at 
Charing Cross, and soon after saw before me the 
Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. 
Could it be possible ? Were these grand and world- 
renowned buildings really before me, or was it all a 
dream? — such were the thoughts that passed through 
my mind on first beholding them. Soon, however, 
all doubts of reality had passed away, and I was 
standing in the historic abbey, within whose gray 
walls coronations have taken place, and kings and 
queens, as well as persons eminent in science, art, and 
literature, have found a last resting-place. I passed 
up lofty aisles, over marble slabs covered with in- 
scriptions; by statues, monuments, and busts, wan- 
dered through gloomy passages and arched cloisters; 
and lingered over ancient tombs in quiet chapels. 
One of the most interesting places is "Poets' Cor- 
ner," where among the monuments to English poets, 
we see a bust of our own dear Longfellow. And 
how one's heart thrills with patriotism and swells 
with love and pride as he gazes at it! The royal 
tombs that most attracted my attention are those of 
Queen Elizabeth, Mary Queen of Scots, Henry VII., 
and the two youths, Edward V. and Richard, Duke 
of York, who were murdered in the Tower. 



126 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

Before I had quite made the rounds, the abbey- 
clock chimed a quarter of three, the time for wor- 
shipers to gather for the afternoon service. I re- 
mained to hear a part of it, and then strolled over 
toward the Houses of Parliament. A crowd was 
standing about the gates, watching the members of 
the "houses" drive out. Stylish carriages, often 
containing the wives and children of the statesmen, 
drove in, and after ten or fifteen minutes returned 
with the gentlemen. I scanned the faces as they 
passed, thinking that Gladstone or some other promi- 
nent member might be among them, but all were 
strange to me, and as there was no informant at 
hand, I remained in ignorance as to who they were. 
Resuming my way, I next crossed Westminster 
bridge, from which I had an excellent view of the 
Parliament Houses, rearing their gray stone walls, 
lofty towers, and numerous minarets on the bank of 
the Thames. While looking at this beautiful piece 
of architecture, the clock in one of its towers sent 
out upon the evening air a sweet strain of music and 
then rang out the time of day. 

Next morning, I visited the National Gallery, 
where there is a large and fine collection of pictures, 
but none that are specially celebrated. As I was 
about to leave the gallery, I met a friend whom I 
had learned to know in Leipsic. She also was on 
her way to America. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. \2J 

A number of hours were pleasantly passed in St. 
Paul's Cathedral, which with its immense dome was 
thirty-five years in building. Then came luncheon, 
a farewell visit to Westminster Abbey, and a ride to 
Hyde Park. It was about 5 o'clock when I arrived, 
and already a constant stream of carriages and pe- 
destrians was passing through the large gates. I 
walked along "Rotten Row," where hundreds of peo- 
ple were seated on benches, standing in groups, or 
walking back and forth, watching the elegant car- 
riages roll by, which, drawn by high-stepping horses, 
proud in their gold and silver trappings, held people 
of fashion, nobles, and members of the royal family. 
The coachmen and footmen, in their gay liveries, sat 
in front, and back of them, leaning lazily against the 
cushions, were beautiful women, sweet children, 
handsome young, and pompous old men, all dressed 
in the height of fashion — chatting, smiling, and bow- 
ing to their acquaintances. After walking a long 
distance, I crossed the drive-way, sought out a good 
place to rest and seated myself upon one of numer- 
ous chairs placed along the walks. I had been sit- 
ting there perhaps five minutes, when a man came 
and stood before me, as though waiting for some- 
thing. I began to suspect that the chairs were not 
free, and asked the price. "One penny," said he, 
after receiving which he gave me a ticket and went 
on to collect elsewhere. 



128 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

After a time, I strolled along some of the delight- 
ful walks in the park, and saw the largest and most 
beautiful hydrangeas, of all colors, that I had ever 
seen. There were other flowers also, and shrubs and 
palms. On the Serpentine, people were rowing and 
children sailing their toy boats, but "Rotten Row" 
presented the greatest attractions, so I returned and 
joined the crowd just opposite the main entrance of 
the park. Here many of the carriages stopped and 
the people alighted to take a promenade. Riders 
were out now, too, and the "Row" had become so 
thronged that there were frequent blockades in spite 
of the vigilance of mounted and unmounted police- 
men. The day was exceptionally fine, and the 
crowd was expecting to see the Prince of Wales, but 
for some reason he did not come. I lingered until 
it began to grow late, and then reluctantly took 
leave. 

Up the Old City Road, I next morning wended 
my way to John Wesley's chapel and house — two 
very plain structures. The chapel stands back from 
the street, and in the yard before it is a statue of 
Wesley with the inscription, "The World is my 
Parish." While seeking for Wesley's grave in the 
church-yard opposite, I was surprised to find John 
Bunyan's tomb. On it is a statue of Bunyan, in a 
recumbent position, with a book in one hand. 

I had not yet seen the Tower, so now set out in 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 29 

that direction, and reached it after some difficulty, 
having once lost my way. Within the ramparts I 
saw many cannon, which were taken in battle; and 
near by a company of soldiers was being drilled. 
Mounting an old stair-way, I reached the main part 
of the Tower, where the crown jewels are kept. 
Here I found a crowd looking at the precious gems, 
which are arrayed in the form of a pyramid in the 
center of the room, and are surrounded by iron bars 
and a glass case. Queen Victoria's crown is at the 
top; below it are the crowns of former kings and 
queens, also gold platters, salt-dishes, and maces that 
are carried on state occasions. The contents of this 
case are worth about $1 5,000,000. In other cases are 
the necklaces and medals worn by the members of 
the different orders, also the silver trumpets used 
when Victoria was crowned queen. 

The majority of rooms in this part of the Tower 
contain armor and weapons of former knights and 
kings, also instruments of torture, and a beheading 
block and an ax used in the execution of several promi- 
nent men. The walls and ceilings of these rooms 
are decorated with spears, swords, revolvers, and 
arrows, arranged in fanciful designs. In one room 
the ancient kings used to hold their banquets and in 
another, their devotional exercises. After spending 
some time here, I went out into the yard, and 
was directed by one of the warders to the 
9 



130 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

place where Anne Boleyn, Catharine Howard, 
and Lady Jane Grey were beheaded. I gazed long 
at the brass tablet which takes the place of that 
dreadful block, and then took a seat under the spread- 
ing branches of a tree. While resting there a man 
came calling the pigeons and strewing crumbs for 
them. They flew in from all directions and cooing 
alighted at his feet. What a contrast, thought I, 
between this peaceful scene and that of former days, 
when the block was there, and the glittering ax doing 
its terrible work! 

Slowly and musingly I arose and entered Beau- 
champ Tower, where so many unfortunate persons 
were once imprisoned. Mounting a steep and nar- 
row flight of stairs, I reached the room where 
prisoners were brought out in the day-time, their 
night cells being so small that there was just room 
to sit upright. To while away the tedious hours of 
their imprisonment, the unhappy beings covered the 
walls with devices and inscriptions, of which the 
earliest is dated 1462 and the most recent, 1794. 
Some of the designs are pretty and display artistic 
skill, and I spent considerable time examining them 
and deciphering the writing. 

Next morning, after a night's rest, or rather unrest 
— for I had the "reisefieber" (traveling fever) — I 
started for Liverpool, from which city I was to sail, 
and where I arrived after a four-and-a-half hours' ride. 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 131 



CHAPTER XVII. 

ACROSS THE ATLANTIC AND UP THE ST. LAWRENCE. 

I DID not see much of Liverpool, the time being 
too short, but what I did see did not impress me 
favorably. I never saw so many loafers and beggars 
in one place in my life as were there — hundreds of 
them on the principal streets, on the steps of public 
buildings and lying about the base of statues. An 
evangelist tried to attract their attention in the 
evening by singing "Gospel Hymns," but only a few 
gathered about him. 

The morning after my arrival at Liverpool was the 
time for the departure of the boat. I left the hotel 
early and after a four miles' ride reached the dock, but 
all was not yet ready, and it was 12:30 p. m. when 
we left the wharf. We first had luncheon, and then 
went up on deck, where it was so cool that we were 
obliged to don our flannels and heavy wraps. All 
afternoon we coasted along Wales, and towards 
evening had a glimpse of Ireland. I stood for a long 
time gazing out upon the desolate rocks along the 
shore, feeling lonely without my companion and 
fearing that the voyage for me would be dreary 
enough; but after a few days everything wore a 



132 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

brighter aspect. An agreeable young lady from 
London shared my state-room; the passengers were 
nice, cultured people, and exceedingly kind; similar 
pursuits and mutual suffering had removed reserve, 
and we were now like members of the same family. 
Among my first acquaintances were an old Scotch- 
man and his wife. And a beautiful sight it was to 
see them together ! They were as kind and devoted 
to each other as though they had been married but 
a few days instead of some forty years, and as the 
old gentleman affectionately busied himself about 
his wife as she sat resting in some sheltered place, 
bringing her extra wraps, going below to get some 
wished-for article, or lover-like promenading with her 
on deck, he seemed a veritable John Halifax. 

The first days were stormy and almost every one 
was sick. The third day out I was standing on deck, 
having a pleasant chat in German with a fellow 
passenger, when suddenly the crest of a wave dashed 
over us. Mr. G. saw it coming and by a quick 
movement avoided the greater part, but I was not 
so fortunate, and had to retire to my state-room for 
a short time to dry my clothing. 

The wind was still high on the fourth day, but 
the sun shone bright and nearly every one was up 
on deck. Some were idly leaning back in their 
steamer chairs, and others were reading or chatting, 
when a large wave struck the side of the ship, and in 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I 33 

a trice men, women, children, chairs, and rugs, all 
in one confused mass, were rolling about the deck, 
first to one side and then to the other. I had been 
sitting near the hatchway, and succeeded in clinging 
to the railing, although my chair escaped me and 
slid about as though possessed. When the wave 
had passed we had a hearty laugh, but one old lady, 
who was suffering from rheumatism, had received 
several bruises, and was so badly frightened that she 
wept. Before she could be taken below, another 
wave came and upset everybody again. The pas- 
sengers now. sought out places where they could 
cling to the ship, or have their chairs lashed fast, and 
it was well they did, for the ship continued her gym- 
nastic performances some twenty-four hours. As I 
lay in my bunk that night, fearful at times of being 
thrown out, hearing the water dash upon the deck 
and the ship creak, I thought that we were truly 
being rocked in the "cradle of the deep." 

When we reached the "fog banks" of Newfound- 
land, it was so cold that ice froze on deck, and to 
keep warm we were obliged to walk briskly about or 
play "tag." In the evening we were obliged to remain 
in the saloon. The older people collected in groups 
and passed the time in conversation, while the younger 
ones played games. When the steam was turned 
into the radiators, it made quite a noise and frightened 
Col. H., a nervous old man. He looked uneasy 



134 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

and said, "That steam is making a terrible row ! You 
don't think it will bust, do you?" 

Next morning, while at breakfast, somebody said 
that an iceberg was near. We hastily put on our 
wraps and went up on deck, and sure enough, there 
at our right was a beautiful iceberg as smooth and 
white as ivory, with the exception of the base, which 
was a light green. The first view reminded us of a 
church, the second of a monster crouching lion; 
when we had passed and looked back, it seemed as 
though we were looking at the rear of a chapel, into 
which monks were going for morning worship. (The 
figures of monks were formed by shadows.) In the 
far distance were two other icebergs. One was par- 
tially enveloped in fog, and at times we could see 
only the top shining in the sunlight. Another, which 
looked like a huge wedge — and which we thought 
would make a good toboggan-slide — appeared at our 
left. Cakes of ice were also floating about. In the after- 
noon we distinctly saw the coast of Newfoundland, 
and not far away, dozens of whales spouting and 
floundering about. When we passed Cape Race in 
the evening, we saw the light-house and signal- 
station. 

The next day, Sunday, was foggy, and the fog- 
horn was blown almost constantly. The deck was 
wet and slippery, but in spite of that I took my daily 
promenade. Divine services were held by a Scotch 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 35 

minister and a Canadian bishop, who, as they looked 
about upon their hearers, might easily have imagined 
a company of " red-skins" before them, so sun-burned 
were we. The skin began to peel from our faces, 
and we could not move a feature without being 
reminded of our burns. We begged oat-meal from 
the waiters, made a paste and applied it before retir- 
ing; at other times we used vaseline, but what little 
good was done by these remedies was always counter- 
acted next day by the sun and wind. 

Monday was bright and clear, and we were in 
sight of land all day, as we were now entering the 
St. Lawrence river. In the morning we were sur- 
rounded by scores of row-boats, each containing two 
fishermen in picturesque costumes. They had lines 
of great length out and were fishing for cod. As we 
approached, we saw them pulling the lines in, hand 
over hand, and when we were near they tipped their 
hats and held up the large fishes for us to see. We 
in turn saluted them, and they seemed much pleased. 
Although it was now the 12th of June, spring was 
just making its appearance here. The deciduous 
trees, which with firs cover the hills and mountains, 
were putting forth their leaves and the grass about 
the fishermen's huts along the shore was beginning 
to look green. Snow could still be seen in the gullies 
and on the tops of the Queen Anne Mountains. 

The most beautiful sunset I have ever seen was 



136 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

on the St. Lawrence, that evening. The river, which 
was still so wide that it seemed like the sea, at first 
appeared one mass of molten silver; the sun was sur- 
rounded by a rosy halo; and the sky displayed tints 
of purple, red, pink, green, and blue, exquisitely 
blended. As the sun sank below the horizon, water 
and sky assumed the most delicate tints, which 
became softer and softer, until they died away before 
the approaching darkness. The preceding evening, 
when steaming through the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 
we amused ourselves by watching the phosphorescent 
lights on the water. A luminous path was left behind 
the boat, and the water that rolled from its sides was 
covered with myriads of seeming diamonds. All 
about were patches of light, which the captain said 
were caused by shoals of mackerel and herring, and 
if one stood at the bow of the ship, he could see the 
fishes dart away at either side. 

The early morning of the next day was foggy, but 
soon became clear. The river was as smooth as a 
mirror, the sky, cloudless, and the breeze exhilarat- 
ing. Both banks were now plainly visible, and nu- 
merous villages nestled at the foot of the hills. Every- 
body was on deck and we glided along so quietly 
that the ever-changing scenery seemed like a beauti- 
ful dream. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we saw 
the Fall of Montmorency in the distance — a pretty 
snow-white fall, which, although narrow, is said to be 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 37 

one hundred feet higher than Niagara. Soon after, 
we rounded a bend in the river, and there looming 
up before us on a bluff was Quebec. The boat stopped 
here some three hours, and we went ashore to see 
the city. A number of us hired "calashes," peculiar 
two-wheeled vehicles having one seat for passengers, 
and one taking the place of the dash-board for the 
driver. The box is hung on stiff strap springs, and 
the back seat has a cover, which can be raised or 
lowered at will. One could easily imagine himself in 
France. The majority of the people speak French, 
the houses are foreign looking, and nearly all the 
signs are French. Our driver first took us to the top 
of the bluff, where there is a fine citadel. Then we 
returned to the Terrace, from which we had a com- 
manding view of the St. Lawrence, St. Charles, and 
St. Catharine rivers, and where stands a monument 
to the memory of Generals Wolfe and Montcalm. 
Resuming our way we drove through the Old Town, 
and stopped on the way to buy some ice-cream, for 
we were suffering greatly from the heat. A few days 
previous we had been sailing among icebergs; now 
we were where the thermometer registered 82 ° in 
the shade; besides we were warmly dressed. Of 
course, we girls had to have some chocolate and 
maple creams, too, and then we returned to the 
steamer. As we were leaving the city, we saw an 
inscription on the precipitous rock, marking the 



138 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

place where General Montgomery was pushed over 
the cliff. Farther on is Wolfe's Cove, where General 
Wolfe landed his soldiers in 1759. 

Next morning we were awakened early and told 
to come out and see the sights. Miss O. was very 
sleepy, and said that she was not going to rise for an 
hour yet. The fact, however, that there was some- 
thing to be seen, drove all sleep from my eyes, and 
hurriedly dressing, I went up on deck. The morn- 
ing was delightful and the kind old captain invited 
me to go upon the bridge, from which there was an 
excellent view of the surrounding country. The 
river had become much narrower, the land more level, 
and spring more advanced. Soon the captain pointed 
to a city at our right and said that it was named 
Three Rivers, because the river on which it is sit- 
uated has three mouths and people formerly thought 
there were three streams. Other passengers now 
began to appear on deck, and I soon joined them. 
Although the river was still quite wide, it was shallow, 
and the course of the steamer was along the line of 
buoys, which marks the deeper part of the channel 
kept open by constant dredging. Later on we came 
to Lake St. Peter (an enlargement of the St. Law- 
rence), and being informed that we would reach 
Montreal at 1 p. m., were obliged to spend part of the 
morning in packing, feeing servants, etc. We had 
luncheon early and it was not long until Montreal 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 39 

was in sight. All with eyes fixed upon the city, 
which became more and more distinct, were grouped 
on deck, chatting in a desultory way, and when the 
people at the dock became visible there was strain- 
ing of eyes to catch a glimpse of some familiar face. 
Soon there were glad cries of recognition and waving 
of handkerchiefs, and in a few minutes the boat had 
stopped. While the cables were being fastened, 
good-bys were said, and then our little world was 
cruelly torn asunder. It was warmer here than at 
Quebec, and as we were not yet accustomed to the 
heat, it seemed almost unbearable. When the 
inspection of baggage was over, I made a tour of 
the city, but did not see the beautiful residences about 
the mountain (Mount Real), from which the city 
derives its name. The distance was too great to 
walk that warm day, and but few of the horse-cars 
were running, as new tracks were being laid for elec- 
tric cars. The French element is not so strong here 
as at Quebec, and the city is more modern looking. 
There are many fine business blocks, churches, and 
monasteries; and monks, and Catholic pupils wear- 
ing green sashes are seen upon the streets. Victoria 
Bridge, which is i£ miles long, and boasts of having 
received its finishing touch from the hand of the 
Prince of Wales, spans the river at the beginning of 
the rapids. 

During the winter the river is covered with ice so 



140 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

thick that railroads are laid upon it, and drive-ways 
marked out by planting fir trees in the ice — the use 
of the trees being to keep people from going astray 
during heavy snow-storms. When the ice begins to 
go out in the spring, it carries the piers and dock 
buildings with it, and would do much damage to the 
city were it not for embankments that have been 
raised along the shore. 

The river steamer Alexandria, which I took for 
Charlotte, N. Y., left early the following morning. 
It started out in the canal to avoid the Lachine 
Rapids, and much time was consumed in passing 
through the various locks. Then, for a time, there 
was clear sailing on Lake St. Louis, a summer resort 
much frequented by the rich of Montreal. Then 
entering another canal, we saw at our right the 
Ottawa rolling its dark stream into the green-tinted 
St. Lawrence. The waters of the two rivers do not 
seem to mix readily, for they can be distinguished 
far below the confluence. A short distance farther, 
and the Cascades were in view — rushing, dashing, 
splashing, foaming — truly they are a charming sight. 
Returning steamers run the rapids, and it is said to 
be fine sport. The sun sank in splendor on Lake St. 
Francis, which like the aforementioned lakes is 
simply a widening of the St. Lawrence. During the 
night, we passed through a number of canals and 
many locks, and in so doing came into collision with 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 141 

some barges. The timbers crashed, and I thought 
after coming thus far safe I was yet to be ship- 
wrecked, but happily the accident did not prove to 
be a serious one. 

When daylight came it revealed many beautiful 
scenes. At our right lay Canada, and at our left 
New York, bright in spring attire. It was indeed 
gratifying to glide swiftly past the verdant meadows, 
the wooded hills, the cool dales, the pleasant farm- 
houses, the quiet villages, and the busy cities — all 
of which it seemed had formed in line and were 
parading for our benefit. In the afternoon the bank 
at our right became high, rocky, and precipitous, and 
upon its wooded brow handsome residences were 
seen. This was apart of Brockville, where we stopped 
for a short time. Proceeding on our way, we soon 
came to the outposts of the Thousand Islands. The 
main body was reached about 6 p. m., and from this 
time until 10 o'clock pleasurable surprises awaited 
us at every turn. Here was a rock just large enough 
to accommodate one little tree. Others somewhat 
larger were occupied by a tent or cottage. Just 
beyond, two larger islands connected by a pretty 
bridge, presented their stately villas to our view. 
Farther on we came to those that contain many 
acres of woodland, and away off at our left we caught 
a glimpse through the trees of the large hotels at 
Alexandria Bay. At times the river before us 



142 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

appeared to be completely blocked, but as we advanced 
passage-ways opened in the most unexpected places. 
As night drew on the moon cast her soft light over 
"all, increasing the charm of the scenery, until me- 
thought we were in fairy-land. 

Early the next morning, I was awakened by the 
boat whistle, and peeping out of my state-room 
window saw that we had arrived at a town, which I 
afterward learned was Picton on the Bay of Quinte. 
After breakfast the majority of the passengers went 
ashore for a stroll through the town, and in the course 
of a few hours our journey was resumed. The bay, 
which is narrow, with high, wooded banks, is noted 
for its beauty, and I enjoyed to the full the ride upon 
it. There were but few passengers when we left 
Montreal, but others had since joined us, and this 
day so many came aboard at Deseronto, Belleville, 
and Trenton, that the boat was crowded in the even- 
ing. Shortly after leaving Trenton, we entered the 
Murray Canal, which connects the Bay of Quinte to 
Lake Ontario. When we reached the lake, we 
encountered heavy fogs, but made good time in spite 
of that, and reached Charlotte (the Coney Island of 
the Lakes) at 1 1 :30 p. m. Many left the boat that 
night, but I, among others, had to wait until morn- 
ing for a train. Noon found me at Buffalo, but as it 
was Sunday, I could get no train to Meadville, Pa., 
until evening. Concluding to make the best of the 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 43 

matter, I procured a book, some bananas, and a large 
rocker in the station waiting-room. As the after- 
noon waned, I had supper, and then took a walk in 
the city. Returning I had not long to wait for the 
coming of the train, and five hours later was standing 
safe within the Meadville depot, from which Miss M. 
and I had departed nearly a year before. I spent 
the night with an uncle and aunt, and next morning, 
while we were at breakfast, my father came to see 
whether I had yet arrived. A drive of three miles, 
and I was once more at the dear old home, where as 
usual, I found my mother in her earthly paradise, 
the garden. 



144 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

SUGGESTIONS TO THOSE INTENDING TO GO ABROAD. 

PEOPLE who intend going abroad are always 
thankful for suggestions, and it is with the hope 
of being helpful to some one that I have added this 
chapter. 

One of the questions to be considered is that of 
wearing apparel. In the first place one must have a 
flannel night-gown and winter under-clothing — 
woolen vests, skirts, etc. — and a heavy dress that 
brine will not spot, for the decks are often wet from 
the spray, and one occasionally gets a salt bath that 
she has not ordered. This durable dress should 
replace the traveling gown as soon as the ship has 
fairly started, and be worn during the whole voyage, 
otherwise the traveling dress will soon be draggled, 
soiled, and perhaps even torn, and one will present 
a sorry appearance when she lands on the other side. 
Plenty of wraps are also a necessity — a heavy ulster 
or padded jacket, heavy veils, a steamer-cap (Tarn 
o' Shanter or soft felt hat), mittens, or warm gloves, 
and a steamer-rug or blanket-shawl, and for wet days 
a mackintosh and rubbers. A number of pretty 
blouses are also desirable, as one becomes tired of 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 145 

the steamer dress, and sometimes desires to change 
for dinner. Necessary articles of clothing should be 
packed in a steamer-trunk or telescope-valise, as the 
large trunks are placed in the hold, where one can- 
not get at them. 

Every one ought also to have a passport, as it may 
save much inconvenience. A number of weeks 
before sailing, a letter containing one dollar should 
be sent to the Secretary of State at Washington, D. 
C, requesting him to send a passport. In due time 
a document will be received, which will have to be 
taken to a justice of the peace to be filled out, and 
then returned to Washington. This is all that is 
required to be done, as the passport will be sent in 
the course of a few days. 

In regard to pecuniary matters, of course, one will 
be obliged to have considerable ready money to 
defray the expenses of the journey. In calculating 
what sum to take with one, allowance for fees and 
extras should be made as they are not to be avoided. 
For the remainder of the money it is well to have a 
letter of credit, if one expects to travel about much, 
but if intending to stay the greater part of the time 
at one place a foreign draft is preferable. 

It is well to have but a small sum in the purse, 
and to secrete the remainder about one's person. 

Foreign money can be obtained from the purser 
of the boat, in exchange for U. S. money. 



146 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

The choosing of a line of steamers depends largely 
upon the time at one's disposal, the means, and des- 
tination. If time and money are both limited a 
second-class berth on one of the " ocean flyers " should 
be taken; if there is abundance of means, go first- 
class. Should means be somewhat limited, but time 
no special object, choose a first-class berth on a slow 
steamer. A first-class ticket on a slow steamer costs 
about the same as a second-class ticket on a fast 
steamer. The slow boats are nicely furnished, the 
service is good, and they carry a nice class of peo- 
ple, and if one enjoys ocean travel, the time will seem 
short — too short. I would not, however, advise any 
one to go second-class by a slow line, unless he is 
obliged to, as the surroundings are not conducive to 
pleasure. 

If one does not care to visit the British Isles on 
the way over, he had better by far take a boat for a 
Continental port; it will save time, trouble, and 
expense. 

Round-trip tickets can be bought at a reduction, 
but if one wishes to see as much as possible, it is 
better to go and return by different routes. 

If comfort is desired, a steamer-chair is a necessity. 
It can be bought, or rented at the dock, and upon 
reaching the other shore, left in care of the steamship 
company until the day of return. 

Seasickness can, I think, be avoided to a certain 



OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 47 

extent by being careful not to overload the stomach 
before or after sailing. Liquids should be taken in 
very small quantities during the first three or four 
days, and exercise should not be neglected. Games 
can be played, or what is better, a promenade taken 
on deck. Do not stop for mist or wind or ordinary 
waves, but brave them all. Soon you will come to 
enjoy it, and take pride in showing others how 
steadily you can walk, while the vessel is rocking 
under your feet. 

If, when in your state-room, you feel dizzy, hasten 
out on deck, and at no time remain below longer 
than necessary. In fact, if it is summer, live on deck. 
You will not take cold, if you are properly clad. 

It is said that writing paper, if laid across the 
stomach and kept moist with alcohol, will prevent 
seasickness. 

It is always pleasanter to have a congenial com- 
panion, but a young lady of ordinary intelligence 
and good sense can travel alone with impunity, and 
if she have a Baedecker guide book, it will be of 
great value to her. 

The rule for railway travel abroad is to go 
second-class on the Continent, and third-class in 
England. 

Upon reaching one's destination, it is well to call 
upon the U. S. consul, as he may be of much service 
to one, in helping to secure a good boarding place, 



148 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES 

and in giving advice about many things of which 
strangers are ignorant. 

If you take up your abode in a private boarding- 
house in Germany, it will be advisable to make 
arrangements to get your own breakfast and supper. 
The German breakfast, you know, consists of nothing 
but coffee and rolls, and the supper, too, is usually a 
light meal. It will not only prove a great saving of 
expense to procure the supplies yourself, but you 
can have whatever you wish, and if you do not care 
to spend your time in preparing the food, you can, 
for a small fee, get one of the servants to do the 
cooking, and also the dishwashing. 

I did not follow this plan myself, but would were I 
again to go abroad. The German ways and cook- 
ing are so different from ours that attention to diet 
is necessary to preserve one's health and happiness. 



FINIS. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS Si 

"II II I I II II II II III I II Mil 
II II I I II II II II III I II II 

020 666 710 2 



